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hoff70
ParticipantWell, going into another busy weekend I’ll leave Morgan here:

I couldn’t find any clear pics of what’s going on under Morgans skirt so I shot this in the hopes that it may help others:

That’s the Z stepper coupler and a smooth rod instead of a lead screw. Still need to get a hardened 8mm rod for that.
I also need to think about where to mount the electrics and LCD while maintaining the clean look. I’m leaning towards putting the power supply and RAMPS under the base but I can’t settle on a place for the switch/LCD.
hoff70
ParticipantTrue Robert. And with a reprap you have the tool to do all the modifications you dream up!
I think Q has done a fantastic job designing this machine. So far the frame and rod/tube assembly looks solid. I can’t comment on the arms portion because I have not assembled it yet but I imagine the quality will be the same.
My advise as a veteran reprapper is to stick with what has been proven for now and throw your creative energies into your 2nd machine \o/
I admit that I am being somewhat selfish because I want you to GET PRINTING so you can continue to contribute with a bigger tool set!
hoff70
ParticipantSo sorry, it is 6805. I got my numbers confused as well 🙁
I got all my bearings off ebay and sometimes things like that are available on amazon.
hoff70
ParticipantYou’ll need 2 of those 61805 bearings. One for the print head and one that goes around the 7/8″ copper where it goes through the top plate here:

You can see it at the top of the 7/8 copper here:

It’s not seated into the bracket in that pic. There is a sleeve that goes around the 7/8 pipe that the inner race of the bearing rides on.
I’m also using all flanged bearings for the rest of the assy.
You can read about the SAE stuff and some workarounds here: https://www.morgan3dp.com/?topic=sae-equivalent-parts-adapters
I’m also using 5/16″ threaded rod instead of the 8mm. It’s close enough and available in the US.
Hope this helps out some!
hoff70
ParticipantProgress for this week:

I got everything tweaked and true and then took the machine apart for some finish work. I painted the PVC pipes with some black spray paint made for plastic and I’m going to let it cure for a few days before messing with them.
Got a wild hair and decided to fool with engine turning the base plate… Almost all of the exposed screws are brass which I think look pretty spiffy!
Also got some ABS in the mail (goldish/brown) so I should have the tool holder printed next week.
hoff70
ParticipantI had my doubts until I got my frame together. My front tubes are about 1-1.5 inch out of place each on the front before fastening them down but once the screws are in place the assembly is really rigid! I’m using the thick wall stuff (Schedule 40 I believe it’s called).
My frame was together for over a week and I took it apart for some work and the tubes still “sprung” after loosening the screws.
I doubt if temp change, etc is going to effect it in any noticeable way. It’s used for plumbing with glued joints so I imagine it remains pretty dimensionally stable over time.
I don’t think you’re going to improve upon it much without adding parts, expense, complication to the machine.
just my 2 cents…
hoff70
ParticipantYer! Good job!
hoff70
ParticipantI tried using the file that someone had sliced into 4 “tiles” and didn’t have much luck with it. Maybe I was doing something wrong 🙁 2 of the “tiles” worked fine but I couldn’t get the others to match up…
I think I’ve worked it out but a simple to print template in PDF or something would be nice for future Morganites! Maybe 4 sheets with index marks?
Anyway, I have high hopes for this printer! So far everything is going together well and she seems like she’s going to be a sturdy machine!
Thanks again for the work you have put into this project and your ongoing efforts \o/
Oh yea, I have never had much luck with my rostock/bowden without a fan on the hot end fins (j head) I notice you don’t run one and have no problems. Any input?
hoff70
ParticipantThanks Q!
Mounting the Z stepper has a few challenges with the thick wood because of clearances and mounting the coupler.
Mine:

The coupler can be mounted to the motor and then dropped into the hole.
hoff70
ParticipantAnother picture update.
A pic of Z assembly:

And where I’m at in build:

I still have some general fitment and fidgeting to do but it’s progress!
hoff70
ParticipantMeant to add a picture of the bottom:

Great design the way it just snaps in place! Still need to add the 2nd screws to the rear bracket.
Yea it’s a street sign… Most of the frame materials have been scrounged which I believe is in the best tradition of RepRapping!
hoff70
ParticipantNot much going on because the rostock is undergoing some upgrades.
Sometimes the RepRap serves us, sometimes we serve the RepRap :O
Made a build platform from some 2.5mm aluminum:

I left a tang at the center front because some of the new HBPs have 3 leveling screws instead of the 4.
hoff70
ParticipantNot much going on because I’m waiting on some parts. Printed these out for leveling: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9929

I tried 3 of them but it’s not really steady enough. Guess I need to print another…
I also mocked up my Z motor location:

But it looks really close to the copper tube. I’ll have to check it out when my 8mm rods come in. It may just be close because I’m using Roberts ball-screw bracket.
hoff70
ParticipantI don’t know about pausing the print and inserting strings but it may be possible to laminate the back of the belt with some spectra line and another material. Don’t know how durable the stuff is either. Any deformation of the tooth profile could muck up the works as well…
Would be aweful fiddly trying to laminate a little belt though!
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