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Hello all!
I’m currently working on a build in the US. This will be my 2nd RepRap and I’m more excited about this one because I’ll be printing my own parts!
I’ll update as I progress. Currently gathering stuff and studying the drawings.
Here’s my Rostock printing parts for Morgan:
And thanks again Mr. Harley!
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A little progress:
As you can see I’m mostly printing/gathering parts. I have the build platform almost together and have assembled the tube/wheel/arm portion. I’m awaiting some bearings via mail and then I need to round up the bolts and washers.
I have been studying the 9 degree steppers and what drivers will be required. The small stepper in the picture is for the extruder I plan on using. It’s very small and light and I was thinking about mounting it on the head instead of using the bowden arrangement. Not sure if it would work out or not… Just an idea.
I also made a board for Gen 7 electronics. I’m not sure if it will be any cheaper than mega/ramps but I’ve been wanting to do it so we’ll see how it goes!
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Frame is about done:
I haven’t glued the caps on yet because I may need to trim them a bit to get everything level and run the wires.
Q, have you considered cross-bolting the PVC together to prevent any torsion type movement or do you think it’s overkill?
Thanks for a great design! It’s much sturdier than I expected!
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The frame is so stable precisely because it is so hard to draw on a cad. The pipes stress around each other, causing it to be much more stable than the pipes itself.
My prototype is not glued in, and I am carrying it around by the top platform…
Cross bolting might weaken the pipes. You are welcome to try, but it is not necessary.
For avatars, get yourself a Gravatar account using the same email address you used to regester on my forums. Whenever you sign into a blog using that email address, your avatar pulls through automagically!
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Thanks Q! I guess I assembled it correctly because the PVC pipes are indeed stressed around one another. Perhaps 1″ deflection when “un-sprung”
It looks like I’ll have to move the top platform forward a bit because the Z bracket appears as if it will hit the front PVC legs. Everything is level and square so I imagine it will be a simple job of adjusting the top plate fastening points a bit.
Friggin’ brilliant how the drive tubes stay square with the linear slides \o/ I don’t expect this machine to be very “fiddly” once set up and calibrated. Seems like it’s going to be a really solid tank-like printer.
I’m excited to say the least!
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Not much going on because I’m waiting on some parts. Printed these out for leveling: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9929
I tried 3 of them but it’s not really steady enough. Guess I need to print another…
I also mocked up my Z motor location:
But it looks really close to the copper tube. I’ll have to check it out when my 8mm rods come in. It may just be close because I’m using Roberts ball-screw bracket.
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I tried using the file that someone had sliced into 4 “tiles” and didn’t have much luck with it. Maybe I was doing something wrong 🙁 2 of the “tiles” worked fine but I couldn’t get the others to match up…
I think I’ve worked it out but a simple to print template in PDF or something would be nice for future Morganites! Maybe 4 sheets with index marks?
Anyway, I have high hopes for this printer! So far everything is going together well and she seems like she’s going to be a sturdy machine!
Thanks again for the work you have put into this project and your ongoing efforts \o/
Oh yea, I have never had much luck with my rostock/bowden without a fan on the hot end fins (j head) I notice you don’t run one and have no problems. Any input?
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Progress for this week:
I got everything tweaked and true and then took the machine apart for some finish work. I painted the PVC pipes with some black spray paint made for plastic and I’m going to let it cure for a few days before messing with them.
Got a wild hair and decided to fool with engine turning the base plate… Almost all of the exposed screws are brass which I think look pretty spiffy!
Also got some ABS in the mail (goldish/brown) so I should have the tool holder printed next week.
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Well, going into another busy weekend I’ll leave Morgan here:
I couldn’t find any clear pics of what’s going on under Morgans skirt so I shot this in the hopes that it may help others:
That’s the Z stepper coupler and a smooth rod instead of a lead screw. Still need to get a hardened 8mm rod for that.
I also need to think about where to mount the electrics and LCD while maintaining the clean look. I’m leaning towards putting the power supply and RAMPS under the base but I can’t settle on a place for the switch/LCD.
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Thanks Q! Your kind words are very encouraging! I think it’s an absolutely fantastic looking machine! The looks have a lot more to do with the clean design and aesthetics than some wood stain and spray paint though.
Any input on where to put the LCD? I’m going to try hard to hide the wiring and keep it clean according to your original design goals.
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So it shall be done \o/
Perhaps someone wants to design a printable LCD enclosure? I have this LCD on my Rostock and it’s pretty easy to configure and works well:
http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.3/1.4_GADGETS3D_Shield_with_Panel
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This one looks good: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:94442
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Thanks guys. I have a similar rectangular box on my Rostock so I’ll probably go that route and mount it on one of the legs like you suggested Q.
I got my ABS in and had a failure here:
Seems the hot end I’ve been patching up over and over finally gave up the ghost 🙁 so I have another on the way.
Oh well, at least I’ll have the dead j-head for doing the final mechanical clearance checks etc. on Morgan…
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@hoff70: You need to correct your camera-clock – urgent. 😉
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A link to my little blog on letsmakerobots.com :
http://letsmakerobots.com/node/38437
Several 3D printer folks there and soon to be another Morganite!
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Yes Q, I’m having a good time building it! I’m trying to make a spiffy looking machine out of respect for the work you’ve done, plus maybe others will think it’s cool looking and decide to build one themselves \o/ Tis the absolute neatest looking reprap species by far 🙂
I too am excited about printing. I’m shooting for the end of November!
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Gears should be fine, especially with the latest advances in Slic3r development. The option to limit retraction to perimeter crossings only really helps to curb wear and noise.
I am all for high layer height printing for structural pieces, and I am sure the 1mm nozzle lends itself to it very nicely.
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Yes Quentin, I was surprised at how well it works! I’m still fidgeting with the settings a bit so I believe there is a touch more quality to be gained.
Interestingly, it seemed to alleviate almost all the warping/delaminating problems that ABS has been giving me. The first layers stick like glue! The layers are extremely strong and I even did some destructive testing trying (unsuccessfully) to delaminate some parts with wire cutters.
It also prints incredibly fast! The extruder body took less than an hour and the big gear was about 15 minutes. It’s one of the reasons I’m excited about a dual head machine. One could have a standard .4mm or so nozzle for delicate work and a 1mm for really rapid prototyping \o/
Or perhaps the large nozzle for infill and the small one for the shell…
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Another idea i had for multiple tool-heads on Morgan looks similar to the tool-changers found on the old plotters. Remember the grabby penholders that would mechanically act as pick or drop, depending on which side had the pen at the time?
I remember spending hours just looking on in fascination while the plotter did its thing.
I would love to have a couple of heads off arm, just waiting to be picked up.
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Well, I have been away for a bit tinkering with other things but I am ready to finish this machine \o/
I received my 400 step motors last week and I believe the only parts left are some drivers and a Mega board.
From the catching up I’ve done it looks like DRV8825’s are still the recommended drivers? I was just going to run them on all Axis if there wouldn’t be any problems…
I’ve been messing with GRBL and some stray steppers/drivers so I want some extra drivers around for messing with.
Thanks in advance!
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Yes it is Q! I’ll order the drivers this evening.
I have a friend who is also building a Morgan and we are about even in our progress as of now so I’m getting re-energized \o/
Any plans for an auto-level probe setup on Morgan? I was just wondering because I have it set up on my Rostock and I know the Delta/Scara firmwares are similar. I haven’t used it enough to comment on how well it works yet…
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I ordered these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221412335628?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
plus a Mega. I’m thinking that’ll about be it for parts.
I have 2 of these for X,Y motors: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846
That plus GT2 belt and 20 tooth pulleys.
Figured I’d add those links to help folks round up parts.
Cool that you’ve experimented with the pressure sensors Q. Shame that they don’t seem to be a good option 🙁
Seems that having the actual hot end “touch off” on the bed would be the best thing but it’s a tricky problem…
Curious, did you try the sensors under the bed or something else?
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Well, time to update! I’ve recently overhauled my other printer so it’s back to Morgan!
Here’s my HE endstop assembly:
Mocked up:
Motors mounted and belts mocked up:
The wires are routed through a hole in the bottom plate where they’ll return to the top side on the right. I have a RAMPS bracket on my other printer that I like so I’ll probably use it on Morgan as well.
That’s it on the right:
It’s a nice accessible design that uses an 80mm fan. I’ll probably do a more “steampunkish” grille for Morgan with colors more in keeping with the theme.
This is the configuration I think I’m going with:
Power supply vertical in the back with maybe a glowing amber LED in the case. I think the chrome case showing will be nice.
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8825 mod shown here: https://www.morgan3dp.com/?s=stepstuck
Check out the pins on the lower right of the chip in the pic. Two of them have a tiny solder bridge between them :O
I’ve tested 3 of them on morgan and they work in initial testing but if this is your 1st printer I wouldn’t go too cheap on parts.
Budget is important (To me at least) but I wouldn’t recommend getting the cheapest parts available. I’ve had a few of the really cheap reprap ebay parts turn out to be duds…
I’ve had 100% good luck with reprapdiscount and gadgets3d and the prices aren’t that much higher.
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Spinning wheels are nice 🙂
I was wondering, any chance you could send me the pattern you used for your metal plate that holds the heated bed?
I’d like to use a design that’s known to work ^^
Those lightbulbs are really good looking too, add some acetone transfer and you’ll have a killer build!
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Sure, I’d be glad too. I’m working looong shifts all weekend but I’ll get you some measurements.
I have a heated bed on my other printer and just measured the 4 corners and left enough room for error. I want to double check that it’s good before giving you dimensions.
It’s made from an aluminum road sign that I liberated \o/
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René, that printed my Morgan parts, sent me this one as a bonus:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35438
To be precise: Something similar. It has mounting holes that fit perfect for the Arduino LCD.
I didn’t find the exact thing. -
The Marlin Delta branch I’m using includes support for a servo driven probe which just seems to complicate things with an extra motor, wiring, code, etc…
I did a mash-up of other folks work and incorporated it into Rostock:
Not sure if you’ve seen the setup but it uses magnets, a nail and a HE sensor so It’s not much different from Morgan BOM \o/
I’m still fooling with Morgan dual-head hardware and was fooling with this:
Looks neat but doesn’t work very reliably 😐
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