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  • in reply to: A Good first printer for a Beginner? #2937

    For me it was closer to about 400.

    This was my first stab into the 3d printing world.
    I don’t think it was all that complicated to build. Mind you I built mine during the time when directions were in flux and the wonderful reprap magazine instructions weren’t yet available.

    I did a lot of research into reprap general info while saving and buying pieces. This really helped out in the end.

    I say that if you have the drive to stick with it, then go for it. The looks of awe from people alone is worth it.

    in reply to: Building a Morgan in France #2433


    I just got mine built. Hopefully some of this will be helpful.

    1. I recommend starting by checking out your local hardware store and do some price matching. A lot of the parts can be found there. I believe there are a few french builders here, they might have some suggestions.

    2. Your link is to a fork of the Morgan. There’s a link at the top of the homepage for the part files. (Although I did use that fork for info to help me get a better understanding for my own build.)

    3. Power supply, definitely. Salvaged motors, maybe. Depends on what you can find.

    4. Sounds about right. Price matching should help get it low.

    I say get the parts as you build. I started with a printed set then went for the pvc pipe and wood to build the base. Then I grabbed the copper pipe and hardware to get it all together. My electronics came last. (As they are the most expensive parts in total)

    Hope this helps.

    in reply to: Motor and driver question #1963

    Yup that’s after calibration. and a save with m500.

    That’s why i’m scratching my head as to where the problem could lie. I even cleared the settings and re flashed the latest marlin (morgan branch) with the same end result.

    I’m going to try and get some video to see if that helps illustrate my issue.

    in reply to: Motor and driver question #1961

    It’s not that the motors don’t work. I think there are too many microsteps.

    I think I’ve explained it wrong.

    My issue is that the z axis won’t stay level to get the first layer to stick. I’ve attempted to adjust the bed and calibrate it several times. On every print attempt the side closest to you when facing the machine from the front consistently gets too close to the head, restricting the plastic and preventing that half of the first layer to stick.

    in reply to: Motor and driver question #1943

    It does make sense. Thanks for helping me think through this.

    The jumpers I was referring to are the jumpers on the RAMPS board that selects the microstep.

    Both the DRV8825 that are running my Psi and Theta, as well as the DRV8824 that is running the Z axis and Extruder are at 1/32 microstep. So in order for them to run the same as a 1.8 deg motor they would need to run at 1/16 ustep.

    I think I’m just going to have to take my Wife’s advice and spend the money for the right motors. I found a pair for $30 so hopefully this fixes the issue.

    And as a bonus I’ll have an extra set of motors for my next machine!

    in reply to: Motor and driver question #1930

    Thanks for the info. It’s helped me figure out why it’s not working, but I’m still clueless on how to fix it.

    I tried with just the third jumper enabled, and it seems to still be at 1/32 ustep. I couldn’t even find an option in Marlin for the third mode pin(which is M3 on A4988/ M2 on my DRV8824).

    As you said, it doesn’t seem like 1/16 ustep is an available option.

    I was hoping to get this issue resolved without having to make another purchase, but it’s starting to seem like I just need to purchase 1.8deg motors and save those 2 extra 0.9deg motors for my next Morgan.

    Any suggestions?

    in reply to: Motor and driver question #1923

    I hadn’t even dug into the Config adv file. I’ll take a look and make sure I have 1/16 available.


    in reply to: Motor and driver question #1921

    Ah HAH!

    Using a DRV8824 when all the generic RAMPS stuff references the A4988 has given me some issues before, and it seems to have struck again. Silly me for not paying more attention.

    After taking a look at the RAMPS 1.4 page again, the Pololu DRV8824 page, and the A4988 page, I noticed that the jumper options would be different.

    Taking that third one dropped it to 1/8uStep. I need to remove the first 2 and just jump the last pins for 1/16, which should give me the same number of steps as a 1.8deg motor.

    Welp, I need to do the Drv8825 mod too, so this seems the perfect time to fix those jumpers.

    Thanks for helping me get the grey matter box jump started, Q. Hopefully i’ll have pics and videos up soon.

    in reply to: Motor and driver question #1920

    I’m having issues getting the first layer to print properly. Almost as if the z-axis isn’t replicating the movement accurately after calibration. Half of the print sticks (The half closest to the drive rods), and the other half doesn’t. So far i’ve only tried printing the calibration cross-thingie.

    Although your comment about only Theta and Psi needing 32uStepping has me thinking………

    I’ve got both the extruder and Z-axis going at 32uStepping. I wonder if that’s my issue. How many jumpers would I need to remove from RAMPS to get the .9deg motors to act like the 1.8deg motors that the directions call for? I tried removing one (and adjusting the steps in Pronterface), thinking that it would go to 16uStepping, but I couldn’t get the motors to turn.

    I’ve got the z-axis mostly disassembled right now, but i’ll try to get it all back together and run thru calibration again so that I can get some video of it printing. (One of my first thoughts was that I somehow didn’t have the z-axis mounted properly. I’m not so sure that’s the issue now.)

    I’m at work right now, so i’ll try to give some more detail when I get home (including the current steps I have set for the z-axis and extruder)

    Other than the small issues i’ve faced, I love this machine! I can’t wait to build another!

    in reply to: z mount bracket and anti-backlash spring question #1767

    Thanks Q! That’s exactly as I have it setup now. I was asking because I am having a devil of a time with the z axis. When I calibrate the z axis it seems to skip steps because when I try to print it raises the bed way too high and each layer prints over itself.

    I wasn’t sure if it was a backlash issue, or something else. Now that I know my anti-backlash setup is correct I can look elsewhere for the problem.

    in reply to: BOM updated #1650

    The length for the smooth rod is listed on the BOM at 440mm x2. So yes 1M will be fine. That’s exactly the length I purchased.

    The cabinet coach screws are probably 5mm long, as an M5 screw/bolt would be too large for the holes in the z-mounts and motor brackets. I used something like an 8-32 x 3/8″ wood screw (gotta double check when I get home). But then I also used a 1/2″ piece of plywood for my baseplate, so the screw was just long enough to hold the mounts in place. Thicker baseplate could afford you more depth for a longer screw if you’re worried.

    I’ll be posting pics of my almost finished Morgan soon. It’s not as pretty as some of the other ones i’ve seen here, but that’s because i’m saving all of the really cool paint jobs and customizations for my second Morgan.

    in reply to: BOM updated #1635

    For the 40mm long self tapping coach screws I used #4 x 1 1/2″ flathead wood screws as a replacement. Basically you just need something long enough to reach through the toolhead into the arm in order to secure it.

    For the springs, there are 3 main locations where springs are needed.
    1.) In the Z mount bracket. This spring is for anti-backlash. I used a 44.5mm Overall, 11.25mm OD spring. Just needs to be big enough to fit your z-axis leadscrew.
    2.) On the eckstruder.
    3.) For the heated bed.

    Choose springs that fit based on your needs.

    Electronics are not defined specifically because this is where you can choose your own set of electronics. Power supply, etc.

    The lasercut platforms is just the base and top semicircle of the machine. I went for plywood. From my understanding the universal build plate is just the z axis bed that the heated bed and the z-axis arms are attached to.

    This is just based on what I learned from doing research when I had questions just like yours. Could be totally wrong, but looking at my Morgan, i’d say that info is pretty spot on.

    in reply to: Lots of Questions! #1560

    I went with 1/2″ plywood. All pipes are OD because the need to fit the arms and wheels.

    I’m also using small binder clips to hold the belts. I mean freaking tiny.

    The Pipe adapters are a printable part. As far as the wood, I couldn’t tell you the radius, I just used some linear measurements based on the the dxf file. Didn’t feel like finding a compass large enough.

    in reply to: Lots of Questions! #1552

    I’m getting close to finishing my build, and the one word of advice I have is to focus more on how the machine works, and less on the exact specifications in the BOM.

    Case in point. I wasted a month trying to figure out how to source the same parts you’re asking about. I ended up using #4 x 3/8 pan head philips screws in place of the small coach screws to hold down the motor mounts and the z axis brackets and #4 x 1 1/2″ flathead wood screws for the toolhead. GT2-20T puleys and open belts for the drive wheels.

    I also used 1/2″ and 3/4″ copper pipe for the drive shafts. Little bit of filing on the printed parts and some reaming on the copper pipes and it all fits snug like a baby. Doesn’t seem to be a need for any SAE-sized printed parts.

    I also got a lot of ideas from reading about building other RepRap models. The Morgan has several parts that are common to many other models. It took a while, but it finally clicked just how modular the Morgan is. Awesome machine, i’m sure you’ll enjoy building it as much as everyone else here seems to be.

    in reply to: Morgan Build Morton Grove, IL #1466

    That happened to me after the first time I took the frame apart. Super glued it and it’s solid as a rock, just as Q said.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 17 total)