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Hi,
I’m from the states (Morton Grove, IL) and am interested in building the Morgan 3D printer. I would like to use the Morgan design as a stepping stone to later build a laser 3D sintering system such as Andreas has done (http://andreasbastian.com/3dp/3dp.html), but that’s getting the cart before the horse. Currently, I’m sourcing the parts and getting the electronics and steppers at this point. I look forward to digging in and building my printer.
One of my questions which I haven’t seen an answer yet, can I buy selective parts, such as the plastic gearing I see attached to the stepper motors or do I just need to make it by hand?
I won’t need all the parts, which I think I can source, only a selective few that are special. Will you be selling partial kits?
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I recommend you get someone to print the plastic parts for you. Going the repstrap route is an adventure, but can take a very long time to get every found piece working together.
I can do it for you for $50 plus shipping, but prepare for shipping to cost much more than the parts… South Africa is far far away…
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Hi,
Thanks for the quick response. I’ll see what I can get done for now with my limited funds. I’m thinking about using LEXAN 72 in. x 36 in. sheets and gluing them together to get the thickness of the parts and then machining the parts out of them that way. Sort of like whittling wood, but with band saw, drill press, dremel tool, etc… . Does this sound like a viable options and do you think I would get the desired stiffness in the final part?
Mike B.
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Hey Mike,
I’m not very far from you, if you need any Morgan parts printed, just let me know.
We also process orders through MakeXYZ, if you’d like to go that route: http://www.makexyz.com/printer/dpr
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Hi,
Thanks for the information. I checked out your site and it looks very nice. I priced some parts on it so I have an idea regarding how much it will cost me. I’ll probably end up having the arms for the Morgan made somewhere and I’ll keep you in mind. Right now I’m trying to get the necessary electronics all rounded up at the moment. I’m working on getting my motors this week. Next week I’ll start on the electronics.
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Ok, so more questions to Quentin,
Not sure if this is already answered, but what should the size/scale of the DXF files be? When I import them into Sketchup, they come out to something like 18-19 ft or in meters something like 5791 mm. What should they be for both the OpenHW_Universal-XPlate and platform_cutting?
Mike
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The DXF files are in mm. I had the same problem initially. If you select options when importing the dxf you can select mm as the scale.(I missed it the first time around, its right to the side of the file select menu after you select import) My measurements in sketchup show 400mm x 460mm for the platform and 220mm x 220mm for the X plate.
Can’t answer to the thickness, probably 1/4″ if you’re going plywood for the platform.
-Remy
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Not a problem Mike, glad to help. I know that issue got under my skin.
Frank, I might be reaching out to you for a set of printed parts as well. I’m in Bloomington, IL so i’m not too far either. Looking forward to seeing how your build comes out.
It’s really exciting to see so many of us in the midwest building Morgans!
-Remy
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Hi again,
So I’m going the route of the 8mm x 330mm lead screw verses the special setup you’ve done, because of sourcing issue for that part. It’s unclear to me though at the moment how this is being driven mechanically. Can you offer any insight as to how the stepper is attached to the lead screw or is it self apparent once I print the parts? Could you upload a picture of the back and underside of the RepRap Morgan for a fully functioning machine?
I guess I’m having problems visualizing how this is going to work.
Mike B.
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Once again, nevermind. I determined that if I try to selectively pull files from the Github web interface in my Firefox, it saves them in an altered format, and not the original format. I ended up re-downloading a new ZIP file of the entire master build and was able to load all the DXF files just fine after that.
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Thanks Quentin!
I’m getting my parts printed this coming week over here (http://uk-3d.com/) in the UK for £ 0.1 cm3. I’ll let you know how they turn out.
Things are starting to come together and I’m chaffing at the bit to start putting stuff together…
Mike
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I am, I found a guy in the U.K. (David) http://www.uk-3d.com/ that offered to do them for $0.15 cm3. It seemed like a good deal, only thing was I had to wait longer. So now I’m waiting for my parts to arrive to see how they turned out.
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About $140 – $160 total, I’m still waiting for the shipping charges to show up. It’s still cheaper than the states, at least that’s what I found so far. I’d wait and see the quality of the parts before you order anything from him. I may be surprised, but at this point I don’t have any reason to believe that I will get bad parts. I’m going to post all the parts online when I receive it.
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The final total for parts + shipping is around $170 from http://uk-3d.com/.
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How should the linear bearings sit in the arms? There are 2 raised ridges inside the Z-axis arms. I’ve tried to place both bearing between the ridges, only to find they will not fit. If I place each bearing in the middle of each ridge, they are not aligned correctly for the Z-axis rods. Can you either show me how they should fit in mechanically or explain it to me better?
Sincerely,
Mike Beauford
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Still chugging along with my build. Had other projects that got in the way, but are now starting to wind down.
http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae28/jade39339/WP_20131006_006_zpscc3da57c.jpg
Here’s my latest pic. I noticed when putting my frame together I ran into to issues. 1) the M4 nuts embedded within the PVC come when I was putting the stand together. I ended up drilling a 1/2 hole in order to get the nut out and re-seat it. Tell me there’s got to be a better way to design this so that this doesn’t happen to other people. 2) The PVC pipes are under a lot of stress, is this by design?
Mike Beauford
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Right!
1) I am thinking of using something like this in future:
It will bite into the plastic, and should not just drop put like the normal M4s
2) Yes, the pipes are under stress by design. PVC is very strong and flexible, but not stable enough to keep the platform still by themselves. By stressing the pipes the structure becomes rigid.
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By design the pipes try to occupy the same space, making them flex around each other.
PVC is cheap, tough as nails and available worldwide. The only problem with using PVC as a structural element is that it is too flexible, making for floppy structures. If you stress them, the structure firms up because the PVC does not want to flex more without a fight.
It is reasonably tough to get the screw of the last pipe to get connected at the top. I normally grab it with my hand, including the smooth rod in the grasp. This allows me to put it until the hole lines up for the placement of the last screw.
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Thanks guys. So the issue I’m seeing is when I do line them up on the ridges inside, 1 or both of the bearings seem to be mis-aligned on the rod. They do not slide smoothly at all, and sliding the rod up and down on the shaft produces a scraping sound. Should the linear bearings just self align or do I have a set of brand new bearings that are bad?
Any ideas?
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Hi Quentin,
Found out why my platform was rocking and seemed to be a little loose. It looks like one of my ported ends on the rear PVC pipe snapped off its base.
http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae28/jade39339/WP_20131009_005_zpsaf7f0412.jpg
Do you think I can re-glue it with super glue to get it to hold and re-attach?
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