A Good first printer for a Beginner?

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    • #2933

      Whenever I talk to people about considering this for my first printer people tell me that it either to complicated or hard to build. For those of you who have built this did you think it was hard to build? Have you looked at the Reprap Magazine instructions and would it have helped you over some of the hurdles when you were trying to build your own? After having to source your own parts did you end up spending over 500 or 600?

      PLease share your experience!!

    • #2937

      For me it was closer to about 400.

      This was my first stab into the 3d printing world.
      I don’t think it was all that complicated to build. Mind you I built mine during the time when directions were in flux and the wonderful reprap magazine instructions weren’t yet available.

      I did a lot of research into reprap general info while saving and buying pieces. This really helped out in the end.

      I say that if you have the drive to stick with it, then go for it. The looks of awe from people alone is worth it.

    • #2941
      Quentin Harley

      Disclaimer: I am completely biased…

      But using the reprap magazine guide I built a new machine in three days with calibration, just following the instruction as written, except of course adding the extra spacer nut in the bottom of the drive shaft as per the written instructions, and following the calibration guide on the Morgan blog.

      Of course that does not count at all… Since designing it gave me insight to how it all fits together.

      Cost wise, it should be cheaper than your typical prusa mendel, since it has a motor less, and a lot less linear elements that add to the cost.

      It should not take you longer than a week to build if you apply yourself. We are planning a build weekend in August at a local high school where kids will build the machine in the space of a weekend, with guidance from people that built Morgans before.

      Let me not sugar coat it though, if you are not able to work in a precise manner, it may be better to buy a prebuilt 3d printer. The way Morgan was designed removed a lot of the precise nut placement needed on some of the other machines, so it can be more forgiving. That said, a precisely built Morgan performs better than a slapped together one.

      Building your own machine is a challenge. Rise to it. You cannot beat the feeling of watching your Morgan print for the first time.

    • #2945


      It is awesome to hear you’ll be working with a local high school. Have you thought about using this as an opportunity to record an instructional video since I’m sure there are more visually oriented individuals out there.

      I have a reading disability which makes it harder for me to comprehend concepts explain in a written manner. While I still plan on sticking with it, a video will greatly increase the pace at which I can complete the printer. Just a suggestion by the way.

      I did want to ask you a few question I had about some of the stl files in the github. I had notice that Parts 3,4,10,11,12,15 have multiple files listed in 8mm and 12mm models. Why would you choose the 8 mm over 12mm?

      Can you explain the difference between the Exskruder-3mm & Morganextruder-1.75? Adv & Dis of Each? Why I would choose one over the other?

      Thanks Alot! You’ve been great so far and I can’t wait to tell the naysayers I’ve run into about my experiences once I’m all done.

    • #2953
      Quentin Harley

      I think a video is a good idea.

      8mm is a lot cheaper than 12mm, while 12mm gives a smoother action, and more sturdy linear movement.

      That said, all my current machines are 8mm. Will build myself a couple of 12mm machines soon.

      3mm and 1.75mm depends on the availability of filament. In Europe it is probably a good idea to go with 3mm (Ultimaker uses 3mm feedstock)

      The 3mm extruder is a very good one. I never had any problems using it, and will recommend it to anyone using 3mm filament. 1.75mm extruder is modified by me to give the utmost pressure possible with 1.75 filament, especially when used with smaller nozzle sizes. It works very well now, and because of a filament shortage I only have access to 1.75 currently – all my machines have now been converted to 1.75.

    • #2965

      So if I understand correctly the 8 & 12mm corresponds to the thickness?

      12mm parts being thicker sturdier and therefore more stable?

    • #2985
      Quentin Harley

      Have to note that 8 and 12 only refers to the diameter of the smooth rod used. The rest is essentially the same, obviously slightly different to accommodate the larger bearings etc.

    • #2969

      yes, think more stable – on my build i make the “mistake” to decide on 12mm-way … printing and printing some parts later i recognise that in Germany i can geht 10 lm8uu Bearings for 10,99€ but only 2 lm12uu Bearings for “only” 4,99€…
      now i’ve all done in 8mm … on my opinion its more than enough stable (i learned toolmaker now working in IT)

      Greetings from Germany
      (everything on my Morgan finished assembled – now working with the wires and then -hope so- done …)

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