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Went ahead and printed the parts to see if it’s workable:
I didn’t finish printing the 2nd holder because I was just going to test the slide mechanism. So far I don’t see any problems with it at all \o/ I printed the female part with support which was a bad idea because it had to be picked out but after some filing/honing the slider is tight and remains “in plane” when slid up/down. I’m not even sure if a screw in the side will be necessary because the sides of the female part grip the male part pretty snugly. I’m guessing that the “lead screw” may be enough to hold it in place.
The way it is now it has about 8mm total adjustment.
I guess now I need to work out the correct angle so the 2nd head will follow the first along the arc.
Something weird happened with the toolholder stl you have posted on your wiki page Robert. I didn’t notice until after printing but the “facets” that mate with the arm are too wide as is the hole spacing for the carriage screws. I thought it may have been my toolpath gorking things up but it appeared the same in sketchup, netfab and cura. I tried Q’s original stl and it looked fine. I grabbed the stl from your page because the pics make it easy to choose parts 😀
Here’s what I mean:
Probably something I’m missing but you may want to check it out.
Here’s some initial doodling on the main toolhead:
Figured since I was fooling with it I’d go ahead and change it to accept a push fit connector. I have a 1/4″ BSP X 4mm on my other printer which works well.
Still need to make sure the angle of 2nd head is going to be correct. I’ll probably print one out and check it with a sharpie pen or something.
Not very sexy but PSU came in:
Chinese 20A deal. About $25 on ebay in case anyone is wondering. I imagine it will go beneath the machine.
LOL, I need to organize my work space as well. It’s quite a disaster! The important thing is that you are at your post \o/
I’m held up on Morgan while waiting on parts but the other printer is busy printing parts for other printers so some other folks can go down the reprap rabbit hole! Prusa variants and deltas seem to be the hot thing in my little circles… That and printing in exotic materials, which I have little desire to do.
Screw compressor sounds neat! I’m familiar with them and 3d printing will be a great way to make the rotors! Suckers need to spin fast don’t they? Then I guess it’ll need a reservoir…
Looking really good! Good to hear you got the Z coupler worked out.
What are you using for a build surface and how is it fastened down?
The j head from hotends.com will come with everything you need, sometimes reprap terms can get confusing. It’ll make sense once you get some parts in hand.
I also use a .4mm orifice and it works well and can make some sweet looking prints! You’ll also need to specify what size filament you’re going to use. Most bowden tube setups (As opposed to having the extruder directly on top of the hotend like a Prusa or similar) use 1.75mm filament. I think a 1.75mm hotend from hotends.com costs a little extra.
You’ll also need some Kapton tape for holding the resistor/heater and thermistor in the hotend. I like the rolls that are about 2″ wide. Can’t remember the metric equivalent… You can cut some into strips for wrapping the nozzle and then use the wide roll for covering the build plate \o/ Plus some thermal paste like Q says.
Oh yea, the “B” in “VB” specifies brass as some newer ones seem to be using aluminum for the nozzle. If you decide to go with another supplier rather than hotends.com make sure you get one with the cooling fins and the hollow allen screw holding the liner in.
Since this is your first printer I’d say spend the $$ and get the real deal from the link you provided. .4mm nozzle/1.75mm filament and you should be all set!
Hope this wasn’t too confusing :O
Some crude renderings of the dovetail deal:
I thought a cylindrical slide mechanism may be easier to work with because the parts may need some hand fitting.
Thanks Q, I get it now. makes perfect sense!
Now where is Robert K. when we need him? We should put him to work \o/
Thanks Q, I wasn’t talking about any fancy mechanism for driving the 2nd head. The plan was to use the dovetail adjustment to raise it up a hair for single nozzle prints. Just turning the screw a few times and tightening a “gib” screw on the side to hold it up and out of the way.
Did you have a particular angle in mind or have you worked on it any?
Thanks Q!
Are you referring to position “A” or “B” or do I have it all wrong?
I was thinking about just another bowden tube for the second head. When not in use it could just hang out unused and the 2nd head could be lifted a couple of MM to keep it from bumping the part.
I didn’t plan on getting into this now but I’m set up with ABS now so I figured it would be a good time to print a dual head. I much prefer PLA but I figured I’d fool with this a bit while the spool is loaded \o/
Not a huge fan of re-inventing the wheel so I think it’s best to keep with the part alignments you had in mind!
I have the threadless deal on my machine and moving the table by hand won’t turn it. It’ll bind like any other thread. I have to reach under the machine and turn the screw to raise/lower the bed.
Not a big deal but one of the things I like about the rostock is the easy ability to move the effector around by hand making fiddling easier when the machine is powered off. Just something I’m used to.
Fiddling is a way of life with reprap \o/
I can see how the drill bit lead wouldn’t bind which is actually pretty cool!
Are your screws contacting the motor shaft? Maybe try rotating the shaft if it has a flat ground on it. You want one of the screws contacting the flat solidly.
I used a vise with a block of wood and a socket about the same size as the bearings to press mine in. They were pretty snug.
