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Yes Quentin, I was surprised at how well it works! I’m still fidgeting with the settings a bit so I believe there is a touch more quality to be gained.
Interestingly, it seemed to alleviate almost all the warping/delaminating problems that ABS has been giving me. The first layers stick like glue! The layers are extremely strong and I even did some destructive testing trying (unsuccessfully) to delaminate some parts with wire cutters.
It also prints incredibly fast! The extruder body took less than an hour and the big gear was about 15 minutes. It’s one of the reasons I’m excited about a dual head machine. One could have a standard .4mm or so nozzle for delicate work and a 1mm for really rapid prototyping \o/
Or perhaps the large nozzle for infill and the small one for the shell…
Not much going on here. Got some HE sensors and magnets plus waiting on wires and RAMPS.
Did print eckstruder though:
I know it looks rough but I’ve been fooling with a 1mm nozzle for fast printing. Printing all the extruder parts took less than 2 hours. I’m hoping the gears will work OK.
Before beginning my build I had some similar ideas plus some ideas about changing the PVC pipe supports but I don’t believe any changes are warranted. The design is deceiving if you just go by the pictures!
The 2 psi arms are VERY rigid and I don’t think anything much could be gained by a third arm. I was pretty amazed at how rigid the structure actually is \o/
Just my 2 cents…
I will soon be disassembling my machine to run wires, change some regular bearings to flanged, etc. before final assembly. I’ll be sure to take some pics and post them.
Any particular areas you think may need attention?
Figured I’d go ahead and finish this since I was fooling with it:
May not be necessary but it was fun tinkering with \o/
And about the bowden tube…
The “cone” is what holds the tube in place when the knurled nut is tightened. You’ll want the outside diameter of your tube correct for this to hold securely.
You’ll also want the inside diameter of your tube sized correctly for the filament you plan on using. Too tight and you’ll have problems with the bowden popping off at the extruder end. Remember that the extruder hobbed bolt/other will deform the filament a bit so if filament directly off the spool is a little tight it may be too tight once it passes through the extruder.
You also don’t want the fit to be too loose either. If there is too much clearance between the filament/Bowden ID then your retractions will have to be pretty long to straighten the filament before movement at the extruder is transferred to the nozzle. Then when the extruder reverses retraction the slack will need to be taken up as the filament moves side/side within the bowden before movement happens at nozzle… Picture an old fashion choke cable or throttle on a small engine.
I don’t imagine heat resistance is much of an issue but it should be slippery inside and well sized.
Hope this helps. Just some of my experiences coming to grips with the Bowden tube setup \o/
It’s alive \o/
http://s932.photobucket.com/user/tnerolf_duagir/media/video-2013-10-01-16-21-55_zps5a5f48c7.mp4.html
Your link didn’t post. Hope you don’t mind that I re-posted the link.
My Morgan is not functional yet but I use Pronterface on my other printer. It connects to your board the same way you upload firmware and it has buttons you can use to jog the machine. Once you bring up the Pronterface program and plug into your controller it should connect.
Cura is a program that creates Gcode files that run the machine from .stl files. Quentin uses “Slic3r” to generate his Gcode so you may want to install that to use for generating your Gcode. Should make your first prints easier since you can use his settings.
I use Cura but getting it working is a PITA because it doesn’t agree with certain firmware flavors. Since your new I’d say stick with Slic3r for now.
Check this out: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrun
I use the free service photobucket to host pictures but flickr is popular as well.
Good luck \o/
Awesome Q!
The ones I have are 1/8″ BSP but they are available in metric as well. I’m using 4mm OD for the bowden tube.
Like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250530953411?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
They are one of the best modifications I have done to the bowden setup on my rostock!
I cooked this up earlier:
But it’s suffering from feature creep overcomplication…
Fooled around with some sharpie pens to get an idea of what’s going on:
The plan was to pick up the proper angle but I neglected to take into account that the distance between nozzles would change it 😛
I now believe that a “hinge” mechanism to adjust the angle will be necessary. If the location of the hotend is off by the tiniest bit in the holder it’ll be amplified at the tip of the nozzle and the layers won’t be aligned. It may be workable without an X/Y hardware adjustment but the parts would have to be really precise.
I was thinking about some type of micro-adjustable screw deal on “hinge” for allowing precise adjustments but it would complicate things…. Maybe just print a pointer and some index marks?
You may want to look at the pcduino.
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/programming-the-pcduino/accessing-gpio-pins
Pretty neat piece of hardware!
Thanks Q and sorry for the poor picture. It’s just a sort of proof-of-concept right now. I need to sit down and figure out the proper angle that head #2 needs to be at for it to properly “follow” #2 around the arc. If you work it out please let me know.
I had considered making the “little arm” on a simple hinge with a single 3mm bolt so it could be adjusted to follow properly. That would give one hardware adjustment plus changing a value in firmware for calibration. That and leveling the 2 nozzles…
Perhaps a calibration routine that would print along the arc with nozzle #1 and then follow on top with a layer from #2. That way the 2 heads could be synched along the arc with the hinge adjustment and further tuning could be done via a firmware offset.
While I have no experience printing with 2 hotends I believe that Morgan is the best suited design for it \o/ The fact that all of Morgans extrusion bits are up top rather than buried within the machine should make the tweaking necessary for getting it (and keeping it :O) working a lot easier!
I sure wish my parts would come in so I can finish the machine instead of coming up with hairbrained ideas 😛
Oh yea, I just wanted to add this:
I’m using these push connectors for the bowden setup on my Rostock and they work pretty well. It does add to the vitamin count which I’m not a big fan of but there is always the option of using the printed bowden retainer which I think looks waaaay better anyway!
These may be a better option for a dual-head just because of clearance issues and the possibility of much fiddling while setting up… May also be useful for your air bearing setup as well Robert.
Sorry if I jumped the gun recommending a 1.75mm hotend. I would check and see which diameter Q uses, I can’t remember at the moment.
The diameter of filament you plan on using will also dictate what size tubing you use for the bowden tube as well and I’m not sure what size the printed bowden retaining collars are for either.
Like Q says, it will also make a difference in your extruder, particularly the hobbed bolt or drive gear that contacts the filament.
Just make sure that your hotend, bowden tube and fastening hardware, extruder drive and filament (of course :O) are all either 1.75 or 3mm.
I’d go with what Q recommends. It’ll surely save you some headaches when beginning to print because you’ll have a path to follow \o/
I would check it out closely Robert because there may not even be a problem with the files. It could just be some of my importing/exporting/manipulating them made things wonky :O
Any input on the “slider” mechanism Q, or did you have something else in mind or see any obvious problems?
I believe for the next version I’ll attempt to get the distance between the 2 nozzles as short as possible while still clearing the arm that the bearing is pressed into. May need move the adjustment screw to the bottom…
