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nethackParticipant
Yes, I’m using the hall effect sensors. There doesn’t appear to be any motor wires nearby. The firmware that senses the endstops is interrupt-driven, not polling, correct? I’m not sure that a slide-past would improve things.
don
nethackParticipantSince I’m only printing PLA, my build plate is 1/4″ Lexan. Prints adhere a little too good initially. However, as it’s gotten scratched up, it’s working better, so I may “frost” the entire surface. It’s fastened simply with countersunk bolts. I built some 10mm spacers to give me enough altitude, but I’ll probably print something similar in shape to your universal build platform.
don
nethackParticipantOne more try…sorry for the bad links.
nethackParticipantLooks like I might be in business. I’ve successfully printed two parts for my next Morgan. 🙂 Btw, I’m still curious about what slicer settings you typically use.
Again, thanks for a great project!
Don
nethackParticipantI may have figured it out. My Morgan is printed in PLA. The z-axis motor gets very hot during a print. I think that the grubs get hot, heat of the nuts, and they press into the plastic, reducing the grip on the shaft. Since yours is ABS, you don’t have that problem. I’m going to replace the coupler with an ABS one and see if my problem goes away.
I’ll let you know so you can warn future builders. Ironically, I have no problem with my PLA toolhead.
Also, one last question. What speeds do you print at? I’m printing fairly slowly right now, but wanted to know how far I could push it once things are dialed in.
Thanks,
don
nethackParticipantNope. Grubs slid off again… 🙁
don
nethackParticipantI think I may have it licked (hate to jinx it). I printed the coupler with 100% infill so it won’t deform as much. Used loctite on the grubs. Looks like I may get my first successful calibration cube.
One other question. What rates do you use for printing? I’m using the slic3r defaults which seem a bit on the slow side.
Thanks for such a wonderful design.
don
nethackParticipantWhat it looks like to me is that the vibrations from the steppers slowly causes either the screws to loosen or to “walk” down the shaft. Maybe I need different grub screws.
don
nethackParticipantI finally got the shaft (drill bit) wedged in tight enough that it no longer falls. The coupler is falling off of the stepper motor shaft. I’m using the 3 grub screws tightened to the point where it is actually deforming the coupler, but they still eventually loosen and the assembly falls off.
Any hints are appreciated.
don
nethackParticipantI’m extremely close to being done. My biggest problem is that my z-axis keeps falling off. Do you have any tips on how to make the z-axis mount grip the stepper shaft firm enough to hold the weight of the build platform?
Thanks!
don
nethackParticipantDoes anyone have part numbers for the Hall Effect sensors they used? I bought a few and they ended up being latching, so they won’t work for me.
Thanks!
don
nethackParticipantI’m making good progress (albeit slowly). I can’t tell from the pictures, how is the eckstruder mounted on the top? Is it just a single bolt? I see a hole in the cutting diagram in what appears to be the right place.
Thanks,
don
nethackParticipantAny tips on forcing it? I’ve pushed and twisted as hard as I can bare-handed. I may resort to light sanding to get it in.
Thanks.
don
nethackParticipantSo far so good. Now I’m working on the z-axis. How are the bearing supposed to fit into the arms? I thought that they simply slid up against the stops inside the arms, but are those ridges supposed to fit into one of the ridges on the bearings? My bottom bearings keep falling out.
Thanks.
don
nethackParticipantI think my problem may be that my PVC is too thick. I’m using Schedule 40 pipe in the US, which looks like it has a wall thickness of 4mm. It is very difficult to get it to flex much. I may try to find some thinner-walled pipe.
don
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