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Quentin
No, I was asking about the arm movements you mentioned regarding the “motor turns the wrong way”.
Which way is the right way ? Does + go to the left, and – go to right ?Would you recommend changing the wires or using the INVERT_X_DIR to change direction?
For the pots, I understand counter-clockwise is less V and clockwise is more.
Any issues with 1/32 step with the unaltered DRV8825s?
Regarding polarity, I was wondering if the 2 coils of the motor needed to be “synced”.
ThanksYeah, well that’s one of my problems. I don’t have the motor specs or datasheet, but I believe they are 1.2A. At least that was the guess from a Sanyo Denki rep I spoke with.
Guess I haven’t seen your setup recently, didn’t realize your ramps was under cover.
Which way is “the right way” ? Does + go to the left, and – go to right ?
So, with your approach you use multimeter against top of pot and the – (negative) input – interesting.
That may be easier than using the GND pin and possibly crossing pins or something bad shorting the board. I’ve already bought 4, two didn’t work to begin with.Have you had or heard of any issues with 1/32 step with the unaltered DRV8825s? Without any mods, should I knock it back to 1/16 ?
If I can’t get the DRV8825s to work, can I go back to the A4988s for X and Y ? Besides the difference in steps, 200 v 400, and that A4988s can’t do 1/32 step, any other considerations ?
Thanks again – now I’m ready to finally get those .9s moving.
Quentin
Fantastic. I understand what you’re saying.
I’m smarter. I now know what you meant by “solder tabs” – thanks.From this, I deduce, the mid-point is at 9 o’clock.
So, the range would be approx 4 o’clock to 1 o’clock, based on my understanding it’s about a 270 degree range of motion for the pots.Is this a good place, 9 o’clock, to start the pot setting when setting up the motors?
Where are your flat-sides setup on your DRV8825s ?
Yes, two pairs. “A” pair and “B” pair of wires.
How do you tell which wire in the “A” pair is 1 or 2 ? Does it matter ?I assume my 2 pairs of wires are connected properly to the motor A1A2B1B2. I’m simply using the
4 pins that are next to the driver chips. Again, oriented as “A” pair – Red, Yellow,
“B” pair – Blue, Orange.MY Ramps image:
What did you mean by “0v input” ? Is that the VMOT ?
Think that’s three questions to answer.
ThanksHi Quentin
Okay, thanks for response.
First, don’t know where “the 0v input to your board” is located. Is that VMOT ?
Been measuring from pot wiper to GND on corner of board.I understand the DRV8825s are oriented with pot towards power and A4988s to the right away from the power, on the long side of the board.
I’m using a wooden post to turn instead of metal screw driver.
As to your mid-point, don’t understand about the “solder tabs”. Can’t find.
I see two black resistors? above, aligned on the short side, and two to the right, on the long side and pin tops below.From my interpretation, the range you describe is either 6 o’clock til 12 -flat to the edge or 9 o’clock til 3 o’clock with flat to top long edge, min to max. ??
What about the wiring?
Is R/Y and B/O any different from Y/R and O/B or R/Y and O/B ?
Do the two coils need to be polarized, in sync?
Thanks.Quentin,
Still have problems here. Recvd new motor driver chips, so maybe still hope.
These “speed” parameters you and Jack discuss – are these the %_ACCELERATION_% params ?
Would like to be able to follow the remedies discussed, need full disclosure of comments. May need to execute for myself on my build.
Looks good Robert.
Just curious, did you figure what the correct thickness of wire should be for a single section? .5mm ?
What was the final total length of wire you used?
Looks like you decide to use some form of pin instead screws. What was your plate thickness?
ThanksHi Quentin – pardon me . . .
Is the first 200, the X – the arms left to right action?I ask because I got a larger rectangular heated bed (300×250) and need to figure where the changes are made. I want the long way to be left-right across the front.
ThanksHi Kweku,
I can’t help you, yet, but if you’re in the USA, keep an eye on eBay, parts appear infrequently.
Saw this tonight:
Hi Quentin, I was hooking up the endstops to the x_min and y_min pins and I began to wonder. Between psi and theta, which is considered the X axis and which is the Y axis?
Not sure that it would make a difference but thought I’d ask you. Is it appropriate for me to hookup the Min pins instead of the max for X, Y and Z ?
Just got my firmware loaded, so I think I’m ready for calibration, eh?
I was thinking about playing with the larger build plate. Figured knowing X and Y may be important when defining the larger build area. Have you played with a larger area? Any hints? Should be fun for pla, until I make a custom heated bed.
Thanks.Enjoying your conversation.
Looks great Robert regarding the heated bed. Am I correct that the wire is insulated? I’d thought it’d be bare. I may have missed in prior conversation, what diameter wire are you using? What’s the total length of wire used to cover the entire area? Makes wonder how my end-stops would perform. Haven’t compared wheel movement to arm movement directly.
With the larger build envelope, couldn’t it be used for PLA w/o the heatbed?
That would be a tremendous build area, just have to keep the models inside the playground. Have to define the larger area to see.
Nice pictures too.
