sam_s

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Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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  • in reply to: Hall effect endstops on repstrap Morgan. #1712
    sam_s
    Participant

    Amazing.

    in reply to: Attaching belts #1708
    sam_s
    Participant

    Well that’s an interesting idea! I’ll see what i can dig (or print) up.

    Looking forward to getting this thing moving.

    in reply to: Build Volume #1582
    sam_s
    Participant

    Nice! I actually like the idea of making a half round build area.

    My link didn’t post before, but this bed looks great, even though it would need its own power supply: http://goo.gl/emcr2a

    in reply to: Morgan build Baltimore, MD #1573
    sam_s
    Participant

    1/2″ MDF. Painted it with some latex paint and finished it with a little butcher’s wax.

    in reply to: Build Volume #1569
    sam_s
    Participant

    What about simply widening the bed? I’ve been thinking about using something like this (if I use a heated bed):.

    Is there any significance to the maximum x and y distances being equal?

    in reply to: Morgan build Baltimore, MD #1568
    sam_s
    Participant

    Here’s the current state. Just a little longer, I believe…

    morgan assembly 1

    in reply to: Lots of Questions! #1567
    sam_s
    Participant

    You should take a closer look at the Assembly instructions, it can really fill in some of the gaps. That’s what I did and everything clicked. For example, the lengths of pipes (and which ones should be used for ported ends) and link to exploded diagram can be found there.

    The copper tubing is 1/2″ and 3/4″ (inner dimension). Very common in the US.

    The PVC pipe is 1″ inner diameter Schedule 40, plain end.

    You need two 6805 bearings. I also found it odd that this wasn’t in the BOM. Also, heed the F608 bearing suggestions.

    I’m believe the 6mm Kapton tape is needed to tape in the thermistor if you use a J-Head.

    For mounting the hotend holder, I just used some long M3 screws. Tolerances were plenty tight so they just held. Try not to overtighten if you go this route.

    I would really recommend following the suggestion of two 0.9 and two 1.8 degree motors. The 0.9 motors I purchased from Sparkfun were only a few dollars more (yes, and shipping…) than the high quality 1.8 motors I usually buy.

    in reply to: Nozzle and z platform height #1522
    sam_s
    Participant

    That clears it up. I’ll just run out to the store and buy a couple lengths of copper pipe so that the hotend stays above the top plate. Thanks for the information!

    in reply to: Nozzle and z platform height #1518
    sam_s
    Participant

    Thanks. I need to look into the homing of the arm. Does it home like other printers (corner of the print bed)? Feel like I saw a video where it was homing to the rear of the top plate…

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)