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sam_sParticipant
Amazing.
sam_sParticipantWell that’s an interesting idea! I’ll see what i can dig (or print) up.
Looking forward to getting this thing moving.
sam_sParticipantNice! I actually like the idea of making a half round build area.
My link didn’t post before, but this bed looks great, even though it would need its own power supply: http://goo.gl/emcr2a
sam_sParticipant1/2″ MDF. Painted it with some latex paint and finished it with a little butcher’s wax.
sam_sParticipantsam_sParticipantHere’s the current state. Just a little longer, I believe…
sam_sParticipantYou should take a closer look at the Assembly instructions, it can really fill in some of the gaps. That’s what I did and everything clicked. For example, the lengths of pipes (and which ones should be used for ported ends) and link to exploded diagram can be found there.
The copper tubing is 1/2″ and 3/4″ (inner dimension). Very common in the US.
The PVC pipe is 1″ inner diameter Schedule 40, plain end.
You need two 6805 bearings. I also found it odd that this wasn’t in the BOM. Also, heed the F608 bearing suggestions.
I’m believe the 6mm Kapton tape is needed to tape in the thermistor if you use a J-Head.
For mounting the hotend holder, I just used some long M3 screws. Tolerances were plenty tight so they just held. Try not to overtighten if you go this route.
I would really recommend following the suggestion of two 0.9 and two 1.8 degree motors. The 0.9 motors I purchased from Sparkfun were only a few dollars more (yes, and shipping…) than the high quality 1.8 motors I usually buy.
sam_sParticipantThat clears it up. I’ll just run out to the store and buy a couple lengths of copper pipe so that the hotend stays above the top plate. Thanks for the information!
sam_sParticipantThanks. I need to look into the homing of the arm. Does it home like other printers (corner of the print bed)? Feel like I saw a video where it was homing to the rear of the top plate…
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