July 11, 2013 at 20:04 #560
Made some good progress this last week putting together the frame for my Morgan. I’m converting my spare Prusa Mendel v2, so my hunt for parts has been pretty minimal. (Still need to come up with 6805 bearings).
I’m using aluminum pipe instead of the recommended brass (or copper) as it was a bit cheaper in my area. Most of my “SAE Conversion” has been done with a Dremel tool, so far as the tube fitting is concerned.
Anywho, I’ll update with questions/progress pics as I go:
July 11, 2013 at 22:35 #561
Good progress! Let me know how those Alu pipes work.
July 11, 2013 at 22:49 #568
6805 is a bearing commonly used in bicycles, and if you go to your local bike shop you will find it as hub bearings. Get the cheapest ones – the ceramics are great, but too expensive for the use!
July 12, 2013 at 20:41 #570
Aah, bicycles! That should make them easy to source.
I’m curious if you’ve experienced any differences in the bowden tube setup between 1.75mm and 3mm filament. I’ve got both hot end options available.
July 12, 2013 at 23:02 #574
Only used 3mm on Morgan so far. To all accounts 1.75 works better for bowden, but I have 3mm down to an art now.
Next machine will be 1.75. Building it right now…
July 16, 2013 at 22:11 #605
I’ve received my 6805s, so I figured it was time to go ahead and prep the frame.
PVC is painted black now, as well as the oak frame stained a nice reddish color to class it up a bit.
One thing I did notice during assembly is that the top/bottom mounts for the smooth rod seem to be a bit more narrow than the distance between the bearings that hold the print bed. For now I’ve just cut the parts to get the fit right, and then I can expand the mounts at the top/bottom if need be. Any idea why that is?
Thanks for looking 🙂
July 16, 2013 at 22:19 #607
Looking good. What was the distance on the brackets? And on the Z-bed bracket? I might have made a typo in Openscad when I recently fixed up all the parts.
July 16, 2013 at 22:22 #608
I’ll double check with the calipers when I get back to my workshop, but I can’t imagine they’re more than a centimeter off on either side (2cm overall missing width on the top/bottom brackets).
July 16, 2013 at 22:25 #609
On Morgan master it should be 175mm between the rods. Di you go for 8mm or 12mm rods? 12mm is 195mm between the rods.
Morgan lite is 160mm.
July 16, 2013 at 22:30 #610
8mm rods and bearing were what I had left over from the Prusa V2. I can double check my logs to make sure I printed an entire 8mm set, but the large bracket is definitely the smaller one.
Although looking at those numbers, it looks like the discrepancy that I’m seeing…more double checking required. 🙂
July 19, 2013 at 22:44 #653
After some checking, it seems that the version of the 8mm top/bottom z brackets came out too short. They can’t be the 12’s, just judging by the holes. That being said, if you’ve got a level, those pieces work just as well as 3 separate parts.
Little more progress this week (it’s been busy), but the drive system is in place and ready to be belted up. Time to start messing with Marlin and the PrintrBoard.
[video src="https://www.dropbox.com/s/v8cz9m2ivkvuq87/2013-07-18_22%3A54%3A057.mp4" /]
July 20, 2013 at 16:33 #660
Really starting to come together!
July 24, 2013 at 00:19 #693
Well, I’ve got the first powered movements done. (Almost wrecked it ><)
Anywho, I’m at the point where I need to mount endstops, but I can’t see clearly in the videos you have up where you have them placed. Any tips?
July 24, 2013 at 01:47 #695
Hope it helps…
July 24, 2013 at 22:23 #710
I found the problem…
The Z-mount bracket was the wrong type. I omitted to upload the 8mm version of the bracket.
So sorry! The files are now corrected on the Git repository.
July 25, 2013 at 05:14 #712
Aah, gotcha. Sticking with my split pieces for now, as the frame is already together, but if I do a teardown after first tests I’ll get them replaced.
I took a look at the endstop placement picture you sent me as well. I see the placement (but no endstops?) in the pic, and I have my mechanical endstops attached there.
A few questions moving forward:
1. What on the wheel triggers the endstop? My best idea was to use thumbtacks/nails pushed into the wheels to push up against it.
2. Where is the home location supposed to be (in relation to the print bed)?
3. Home-X and Home-Y seem to operate both motors simultaneously, a feature of the SCARA firmware I’m assuming. However, it seems that once homed, the already homed wheel will start to turn _again_ blowing past the endstop and causing it to go a bit crazy. Is one always supposed to home before the other?
Thanks a ton for the assistance, I can’t wait to get printing with this thing. 🙂
July 25, 2013 at 06:25 #713
The small magnets fits in the hole in the wheel closest to the homing position. The exact position is not critical, because calibration of the end stop homing offset will take care of that – it only needs to be outside the normal operational range.
I am going to make a small video to make it a bit more clear.
July 25, 2013 at 15:50 #714
Aah, I’ve never used the magnetic endstop setup before, I’ll have to look into that. There isn’t a firmware setting in marlin that specifies different homing patterns for mechanical and hall endstops, is there?
Looking forward to more videos.
July 25, 2013 at 18:43 #715
July 25, 2013 at 19:00 #717
Looks like it’s still marked as private. Thanks for taking the time to video it!
July 25, 2013 at 19:04 #718
Try it now?
July 25, 2013 at 19:15 #719jade39339Participant
Great video, that helped me alot to understand what was going on!
July 25, 2013 at 19:28 #720
Perfect, gotta love youtube.
I’ll have to hunt around for a few hall effect sensors this weekend in order to replace the mechanical ones that I currently have. Still not sure why the mechanical ones would act differently, but that’s a mystery for later.
What I’m curious about now is that the bed homes to the bottom and not the top. I’m still using the threaded rod setup for Z and not the leadscrew, and it seems to me like it would take quite a while for it to come all the way up to start a print.
July 25, 2013 at 19:35 #721
It doers take a while, but remember that the steps per mm would be greater with threaded rod. You should also use lower microstepping, perhaps 1/4 or 1/8 in order to prevent absurdly high step rates.
Do not look for a leadscrew yet though… there might be a upgrade in the future that could optionally remove the need for a lead screw, but a lead screw might be slightly more reliable. So if you have a lead screw already, you need not worry that you wasted your money.
July 25, 2013 at 19:41 #722
PS: On the mechanical switches, you can make it work if you can make the switch region larger. It should not be easy for it to miss the landing spot.
In order to save myself a lot of stress, I first simulated the homing routine by hand, monitoring the limit sensors using the gcode M119. This way you can double check that the machine is indeed switching the limits.
Also remember that they should be wired as “MAX” limits, not min if the hardware has a distinction.
August 1, 2013 at 16:06 #789
Alrighty, more updates!
After discovering that I had X and Y reversed (*facepalm*), I’ve got homing working with my shiny new hall effect sensors. Way cooler than mechanical endstops.
I tried a few dry runs earlier, but it seems like it’s still trying to print right on top of the shaft, so I think that some offset adjustment is in my future.
August 1, 2013 at 18:36 #790
Good. I think it is time for the calibration video.
August 1, 2013 at 22:41 #791florentParticipant
Can I ask something that might be a silly question ? Surely it’s because my english is poor, but I can’t find a difference, looking on google, between a threaded rod and a lead screw. Do they differ just by the level of accuracy ? Or is there more than this ?
August 1, 2013 at 23:02 #792jade39339Participant
Threaded rods are not as I understand it uniformly accurate with regards to the pitch of the screw where as lead screws more or less guarantee uniform pitch, diameter, etc… within a given tolerance range. That’s why they cost much more than a threaded rod.
August 1, 2013 at 23:49 #793florentParticipant
OK ! Thanks a lot !
August 2, 2013 at 00:06 #794
That is correct. Threaded rods were designed to fasten stuff together. Is was never meant to be accurate.
August 2, 2013 at 00:09 #795
Right. I took the video, but this one I will have to edit together since I used screencapture and my phone to demo the calibration.
Give a me a day or two…
August 2, 2013 at 05:02 #796
Hi Frank, good job!
I’ve never used magnetic endstops either, I have no idea what type and where can I buy them…Could you give me a website link of the supplier in order I can buy them directly.
And is there any calibration of Marlin firmware(Quentin’s armlevel) after mounting them on machine?
August 2, 2013 at 06:11 #797
There is a calibration routine, but homing will work even without calibration. I have shot some video a few hours ago, and need to edit it together.
I am also going to make a calibration flowchart to make it very clear.
August 2, 2013 at 12:49 #798
Thank you Quentin!
Awaiting for your nice video.
I’ve assembled arms, drive wheels and frame, but I don’t know where to buy the hall effect sensors. I searched them on ebay, but that seems different from your video shows… So, could you give me a hall effect sensor supplier’s link?
August 2, 2013 at 15:31 #799
I snagged my hall effect sensors on Amazon for a pretty decent price:
They work well with those tiny ‘thumbtack’ fridge magnets.
August 2, 2013 at 22:49 #801
August 3, 2013 at 23:33 #811
August 6, 2013 at 17:17 #843
Working my way through the flowchart, but I haven’t had too much time lately. I’ll let you know how it goes when I get done.
August 7, 2013 at 04:28 #848
I bought hall effect sensors on Amazon, the type is same as yours. But they didn’t work fine, I linked them to RAMPS by wires directly, was I wrong? Do sensors need another electronic board?
August 7, 2013 at 05:42 #849
Two things to remember when using the hall sensors:
- make sure it is wired correctly. Do a test on a piece of breadboard first if you are unsure
- The sensors are polar, meaning that it will not tigger if the magnets are out into the wheels with the wrong pole facing the hall sensor.
Hope this helps.
August 7, 2013 at 09:07 #853
Do I need to buy sensors with boards like this? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-Hall-Endstops-react-magnetism-3D-printer-reprap-prusa-mendel-etc-/150872387181?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2320b1ee6d)
Or just A3144E sensor is OK?
August 7, 2013 at 13:43 #856
The sensor should work as is. I use the updated sensor in my machine though… A1101E
Mine switches at 100G, whereas the 3144 is not clear… The datasheet does not give proper switching values for it.
I would recommend getting A1104e hall effects. They are very cheap, and work a charm.
August 13, 2013 at 01:00 #861
Hrmm, just started messing with Morgan calibration again, and my board isn’t responding to M360, M361, M362. G28 to home still works fine. Any idea what’s up?
August 13, 2013 at 05:34 #864
All movement in disabled until you hit home, but I assume you have done that first.
You are running the latest version of qharley/Marlin armlevel branch, right? What does the firmware report when you connect to Morgan in Pronterface?
August 13, 2013 at 22:59 #872
Yeah, the homing works fine, it’s just the second time I went to run this calibration, it doesn’t respond to M360/1/2.
It’s reporting fine via the console as well, as the SCARA version of Marlin.
August 13, 2013 at 23:17 #873
Which electronics are you using again?
I just performed the whole calibration routine again after I had to take apart the Daughter of Morgan.
August 14, 2013 at 12:12 #879
Grab a fresh copy of the Morgan firmware (armlevel branch) and reprogram your board. When startin up it should state :
Author: (qharley, Morgan SCARA armlevel)
somewhere in the startup text on the gcode terminal. If not, you might have the incorrect branch. If you have the right branch. you may have set something up incorrectly, and you need to reset to factory defaults using M502.
Hope it helps.
August 16, 2013 at 09:31 #890
How is Morgan doing?
August 16, 2013 at 15:29 #893
I’ll be verifying this afternoon that the branch that I’m on is correct, as well as resetting the board if I’ve got to. Even though the calibration looked close last time, my dry-run print was still trying to print itself on top of the top wooden frame, and not the bed.
Once everything is working properly, I’ll need to more permanently secure my belts to the drivewheels, and then it’s print time!
August 16, 2013 at 17:08 #901
Post your boot splash settings here before you start. You can always come back to it, or help me understand what is going on.
August 28, 2013 at 00:06 #1112
< 6:00:37 PM: FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:https://www.morgan3dp.com PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Morgan EXTRUDER_COUNT:1
That’s my splash message. Trying again today, M360 is once again working. Just had to hit the reset button on the PrintrBoard.
I’ll let you know how calibration goes.
August 28, 2013 at 05:32 #1113
For fastening your belts you could also look at the very nice belt clamps angrychisel made for his Morgan derivative
I will be printing a couple, and should have something similar on Morgan git soon.
August 28, 2013 at 14:19 #1115angrychiselParticipant
Oh Quentin please don’t tell anyone about my over engineered belt clamps. I plan to make something simpler in the future, but I needed something quick to tighten the belts. I’m a tad bit embarrassed by them. I promise I will develop a simpler and easier to adjust system when I get a chance. I actually thought about incorporating the dovetail into the wheel in the future, that way you would only need to print 2 extra pieces. The belt wedge and the belt tightener.
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