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DragoslaV
ParticipantYeah, that might be useful info, also a note on the calibration of the E-steps if a different setup is used, might be useful too.
A good google search would reveal this too ofcourse.
DragoslaV
ParticipantAfter boring the .4mm hole, she now prints a bit better! 😀 I also used Cura but I couldn’t define a z-offset there I had to play around with the configuration again.
But I got my first print done 😀
I still got some issue’s to figure out but I’m getting closer and closer.
DragoslaV
ParticipantThanks for the tip, I am going to get myself a drill of that diameter, I think it might have been blocked too.
I’ll be back soon with an update.
DragoslaV
ParticipantAhh I see, maybe that did contribute to my problem.. Well I guess it didn’t hurt that I cleaned my nozzle already. 😀
DragoslaV
ParticipantAfter reading this page http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_User_Manual:_Extruder
I decided first to clean the nozzle as mentioned. I am also waiting for an all metal J-head I found for relative cheap. It also has a detachable nozzle, which I thought would be easy in use and easier to replace.
After that I will reassemble it and monitor the temperature a bit more closely. I did verify that I used the right components and configured them correctly in Marlin.
I’ll keep it posted.
DragoslaV
ParticipantI am using 1.1.1-dev. Cura is also an awesome program and easier to us, I am going to give that a try tomorrow.
But I still got to figure out why the flow of PLA is fluctuating.
I just thought about checking the temperature of my nozzle, maybe its cooling down to much so that it blocks the flow of PLA.
DragoslaV
ParticipantYes sir, with your settings. I’m pretty sure I have set the right nozzle diameter and filament diameter.
DragoslaV
ParticipantDragoslaV
ParticipantYesterday I soldered 2 new drivers, 2 new stiff rods and attached the new build plate. It seems this last two made it stiff enough.
I also made a modular extruder and spool with an 4-pin XLR-connector for stepper motor. I did use the Airtripper extruder (direct drive) so I had to calibrate my e-steps with:
new_e_steps = old_e_steps * (100 / distance_actually_moved)Once 10mm in e-steps was 10mm on my vernier I was ready for a test print. But that didn’t went that well, the flow of PLA is inconsistent and the PLA tends to curl up all the time and tries to print on the nozzle rather than on the build surface…..
Any tips?
DragoslaV
ParticipantFirst off good luck with your build 🙂
But I do want to let anybody know that comes for info that you can find it under €2:
i.e. http://www.ebay.fr/itm/TIGE-FILETEE-POUR-COLLIER-M8-M10-Dim-M8-125-/171231573863
DragoslaV
ParticipantStainless thread rod maybe? Mine was under €2 and bought at the local construction store.
Also regardless of the drill bit, you still need a threaded rod for the wheel to the arm distribution.
DragoslaV
ParticipantOk I have found out why it was doing this. I first off have tried 2 version of Slic3r (0.9.10b and 1.1.1-dev).
The reason why I was getting stretched out dimension was because of the custom start g-code.
I have removed all lines, and manually add each line, save and see if I could reproduce this issue.
And with success, I got strange dimensions after issuing ‘G1 E10’ when I disabled this line all went correctly….
DragoslaV
ParticipantOk, problems are totally caused by the STL to Gcode conversion and not the fault of the printer… When I loaded the STL straight into the Pronterface it loaded the correct dimensions and start printing correctly. When I convert STL manually to G-code (with Slic3r and your Slic3r sttings) than Pronterface will give some stretched out dimensions.
i.e.
The print goes:
– from 73.34 mm to 126.66 mm in X and is 53.32 mm wide
– from 73.34 mm to 126.66 mm in Y and is 53.32 mm deep
– from 0.00 mm to 39.95 mm in Z and is 39.95 mm highand wrong:
– from 73.38 mm to 126.62 mm in X and is 53.25 mm wide
– from 0.00 mm to 126.62 mm in Y and is 126.62 mm deep
– from 0.00 mm to 39.70 mm in Z and is 39.70 mm highSometimes you can overlook and stare at the simplest facts when you can’t get it working. Glad I loaded into Pronterface and I got this feedback.
Well going back to trying to get a result this time 🙂
DragoslaV
ParticipantI got mine from here. It was 8,- GBP shipping cost to sent it to the Netherlands, I think this will be the same for you. Total cost was +/- 16 euro.
DragoslaV
ParticipantThat’s the weird thing, all jumpers are on high, both arms move at the same speed when homing. (with Theta hitting home first)
I have checked the 16 teeths per 40mm and confirmed it. but I do have an 18 teeth pulley and couldn’t really find (both here and in the magazine) what it should be. That might explain the lower steps I need.
Could it be a bad driver or a bad mega clone?? or maybe OctoPrint?
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