All good things › Forums › Morgan Builders forum › Structure BOM item names – in English?
- This topic has 5 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 1 month ago by
Quentin Harley.
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February 3, 2015 at 00:11 #5835
MacMarty15221
ParticipantHi! I’m setting off on the journey of building a Morgan, and I’m trying to get put together a BOM. (Tried to access one on KitBOM.com, but that seems to be unresponsive today.)
The assembly PDFs for the arms are clear enough, but the one for the structure is in Affrikans, no surprise. Reprap_Morgan_Hardware.PDF. Could I get the respective part names in English? (Just a list of names would suffice.)
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February 4, 2015 at 13:13 #5837
Quentin Harley
KeymasterHi MacMarty
That List is on Robert Kuhlmann’s page, and is in German. Cannot change that.
You can find a BOM in the Reprapmagazine article, and in the assembly page on this site:
Hope it helps!
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February 16, 2015 at 03:19 #5896
MacMarty15221
ParticipantThanks, Quentin. Those pointers helped a lot, and the illustrations in the RepRapMagazine article help VERY GREATLY.
…. but leads to more questions. 🙂
1) The article specifies two types of NEMA17 stepper motors, “200 step” and “400 step”. It’s easy for me to imagine that two of ONE type are used to drive the Psi / Theta shafts, and presumably the SECOND type are used for Z and the Extruder. Can you please recommend the TORQUE specifications for each position on the printer?
2) I am a foolish American, so I want to wrestle with the “15mm copper tubing” issue again. Can you please tell me the -actual- ID/OD for the tubing you are using? Wikipedia has a lot to say, suggesting that our nominal 1/2″ type L or type M copper tubing might apply, being 15.875mm OD
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper_tubing -
February 16, 2015 at 06:08 #5899
Quentin Harley
Keymaster1) You are welcome to use 4x 400 step motors. Since the price for 200 vs 400 step motors have become the same, I only use that one type in my machines.
I typically use one of these motors:
42BYGHM809
42BYGHM810normally depending on what I can get my hands on.
2) There are no “foolish Americans” – just ones that lack a feel for the approximate size of the metric system. I can relate to that, in that I feel a bit lost when reading instructions based on SAE. Don’t get stuck on the exact size. All you need is a tube that will fit over the chosen threaded rod, but large enough that the nuts for that rod could be knocked into the open end without splitting the pipe. I specified the sizes, since it seems to be a standard pipe sizes for plumbing – at least here in South Africa.
Your 1/2″ pipe sounds perfect.
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February 16, 2015 at 17:14 #5903
MacMarty15221
ParticipantOh, don’t get me wrong, good sir. I have a full appreciation of the metric system, and the difference between “measurement systems” and “manufacturing standards”. (Happily, I am not involved in the manufacture of British bicycles, which I hear is a world of its own.)
My desire to learn the wall thickness of your 15mm pipe is driven by the wish to benefit from your proven and successful experience.
I personally think that the development of an SAE-based branch of the Morgan design would be a waste of resources. “Why invent a square wheel when a perfectly round one already exists?”
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February 16, 2015 at 21:52 #5915
Quentin Harley
KeymasterNoted 😉
Get the strongest pipe you can easily get hold off. I use Class 1 pipe (rated for gas installation) if I can get it, but class 0 plumbing pipe works fine as well.
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