Morgan build in Charleston, SC

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    • #1556
      FuzzyFish
      Participant

      Started working on a build a few months ago, using a friends printer to print the parts in PLA. Then in the spirit of no budget, proceed to make it as such.

      Odd bits include:
      -SAE pipes, parts converted by hand
      -Bits of an old oak desk for the platforms
      -Pink used as it was the color I had the most of, as hard as it is on the eyes.

      Progress:
      Fully functional w/temp wiring.

      Attempting to calibrate. however a bit stuck at the moment. Arms don’t seem to want to go anywhere near the build platform when I attempt to run through the calibration. Not sure what aspect I’m missing at the moment, but I hope to have it sorted soon.

      Goals: Print off updated parts with SAE dimensions.

    • #1584
      FuzzyFish
      Participant

      Success! (Sort of.) while my thread is pretty lacking in the build I finally got it to print for the first time.

      First print!

      Problems I encountered during calibration:
      1. X, Y, and Z axis were all reversed. Flipping the connector solved almost all my issue with my calibration failing to do M361 properly. And the arm collision issue.
      2. Had issues

      Current and primary issues:
      1. Motion while printing is extremely jittery giving a very wavy appearance to all parts. All other movements outside of printing are very smooth. (Not sure how to fix this yet, any input would extremely welcome)
      2. Duct tape drive belts, need to be replaced with real drive belts, however they are working and do not seem to be slipping.
      3. Homing command needs to be reversed in software.
      4. Proper mounting of hardware to case.
      5. Wiring clean up, looks downright awful.

    • #1585
      evamvid
      Participant

      How’d you setup the duct tape belts? That might be a really good idea for repstrapping; on some of the bigger repraps, belts can be a significant part of the overall cost.

    • #1590
      FuzzyFish
      Participant

      The duct tape belts are just duct tape folded over 4 times, I don’t see it working on many other types of printers. The joint is quite thick, but because of the large diameter pulleys I can just have it facing towards the back. It’s not substitute for real belts, but as you mentioned and the way I’m using it is perfect for repstrapping a Morgan.

      I viewed the gcode to make sure it didn’t have anything odd in it, that looked good. I changed some speed settings in the firmware and it seems to have fixed a lot of the shuttering at the cost , though there is some only while printing still. I loaded the defaults you provided (LQ15.ini in this instance).

      Currently I’m using it to print some updated parts for my printer, and adjusting it along the way. However it’s looking very close to being properly useful. I have to say this design is extremely tolerant of errors during construction (In my case hand cut parts, hand drilled platform, SAE parts easily modified to fit, cut z-axis support brackets), amazing job on the design Quentin.

    • #1591
      Quentin Harley
      Keymaster

      LQ15 is a program that is exactly what the name implies… Low quality.

      The quicker the print, the more wavy artifacts will be visible, but the parts are always usable. I use that program when I print draft copies of parts for my own use.

      For “customers” I use the MQ15_slow program. I’ll make sure I upload it soon.

    • #1607
      FuzzyFish
      Participant

      I found that issuing G1 commands to any coordinates would replicate it. Symptoms seemed similar to skipping steps. Lowering the maximum X/Y feedrates, and X/Y acceleration seems to have mostly fixed it. No idea why it did, but it resolved it for now. May just need to bump up my driver current a bit.

      The really big issue I need to resolve now is shaft slippage causing some X/Y drifting. However, at lower speeds I am getting usable prints. And infact got my first usable object, a fuel door latch for a Land Rover.

    • #1609
      Quentin Harley
      Keymaster

      Shaft slippage…

      I solved mine by dripping some superglue into the interface between the pipe and the wheel, and if neccesary also on the Theta arm interface (turn the machine upside down for this…) The glue gets drawn into the joint by capillary action and dries shortly afterwards. It is not an unbreakable bond, but you have to work very hard to break it. You don’t need a lot of glue. Two or three drops is more than enough.

      Do make sure your machine is optimally adjusted before adding the glue. As I said, hard to get loose.

    • #1638
      angrychisel
      Participant

      Hey fuzzyfish I’m in Charleston, too. You ever swing by makelab charleston? I have a morgan too would be fun to get together and talk about it. Here’s a video of mine printing it’s first object after getting it all calibrated and running good.

    • #1685
      FuzzyFish
      Participant

      Been away for a bit, but it’s time to work on it some more. Planning to update the endstop holders to better fit the shape of the sensors I’m using.

      Pretty cool that there is a local group, small world. I’m actually looking into it right now, however the join function of the site seems rather broken/disabled at the moment.

    • #1688
      Quentin Harley
      Keymaster

      I could put you in contact with Angrychisel directly…

      Interested?

    • #1694
      angrychisel
      Participant

      Hey Fuzzy and Quentin,

      The site was having issues with spam so they had to suspend the join function. Our “IT” team is working on it. This wknd no one will be at Makelab because of Barcamp. Everyone will be at that. But anyways if you need any info or anything let me know. I also hang out in IRC all the time. #makelabcharleston and #reprap

    • #1696
      Quentin Harley
      Keymaster

      I have enabled a new form of captha on my site, called FunCaptcha.

      Since that I have seen a marked reduction in site registrations. My phone used to beep at least once every five minutes… Those robots are relentless.

    • #1588
      Quentin Harley
      Keymaster

      Which Slic3r setting program are you using for slicing?

      I’ll post some settings next week… Bleeding edge slic3r looks very good at the moment

    • #1699
      FuzzyFish
      Participant

      Made some progress last night, drilled through the pulley and drive shaft. Then ran a self tapping screw through it.

      null

      Lifted a bit where I didn’t have tape, and it showed signs of the extruder slipping towards the end of the print. But overall fairly solid, just need to get the speed up a bit more now.

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