- This topic has 28 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 1 month ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
Hi there,
I just recently saw the printed parts are not advertised on this page anymore? Is there anyone in Centurion willing to print them for me. Also, I was wondering about the new Motor mounts. Do the new mounts make that big a difference? I already have the lasercut platforms from openhardware.co.za, but they are made for the old mounts, will the new mounts work as well?
Regards
Eujean -
Hi Eujean,
I am in the middle of a large project, with a deadline, and will not have time to make parts for the next month or so – therefore I removed it from the shop for the time being. I don’t want to sell something I cannot deliver in a reasonable amount of time…
It will return.
The new motor mounts make a big difference. Don’t worry about it though. The platforms from OpenHardware is aluminium, and will cut easy enough.
Come see me at House4Hack on Tuesday nights if you want to chat about the way forward.
Q
-
-
-
Hi again Quentin.
Recently I’ve been wondering about the differences between the PVC and the aluminium. Do the aluminium pipes also warp like the PVC do? Where in Centurion can I get these aluminium pipes? I don’t know if it’s relevant, but I’m using the aluminium platform from Peter. Is there a significant difference between the printed parts for the aluminium other than that they go outside of the aluminium? Also any estimates on when I can order the printed parts?
Regards
Eujean -
-
-
I was walking on campus(University of Pretoria) today, when I figured, I might go take a look at the fabrication labs. Luckily I had the morgan part on hand, and took them to the lab-manager. The lab uses a ZBuilder Ultra DLP Printer. They will let me use it, but charge almost R6000/litre volume. So for the 2 drivewheels, and the z-mounts, and pvc pipe supports alone, it will cost me R2500 (including support). That seems a bit excessive, wouldn’t you think? Not too sure of what major advantage the DLP printer has over the rest though?
-
DLP is very expensive… The only advantage it has is the incredible resolution it offers.
The difference is comparative to the days of dot matrix LQ printers. They were cheap and reliable, and made perfectly usable and legible prints. Break out the magnifying glass and you could see the dots, as well as the weave of the ink ribbon on the paper.
You could get laser printers back then, but were horrendously expensive, and very bulky – but made printing press quality prints possible.Fused filament printers are also easier to maintain than DLP.
-
-
-
-
-
Greetings again
I was at h4h tonight, but sadly just after you left. I spoke to Richard though, and he suggested I rather try during the day to print on one of the printers up front? Would any time during the day be fine? Or what is the best plan of action moving forward? Pretty excited to get these parts printed now 😀
Eujean
-
-
Hi Quentin
I am about to get the bearings now. I went back to Centurion bearings, and they said they are trying to get away from selling cheap bearings, they only had expensive ones.. So I think I will order from Peter or maybe http://www.3dprintingstore.co.za. I am just a bit confused as to how many of what bearings to get, because the assembly instructions on this page keeps recommending flange bearings instead of the standard 608s. And in the magazine, they only use standard 608s as far as I can tell.
Would the following work, excluding the 6805s:
- 4 x F608zz
- 5 x 608zz
Also on another note, I can’t figure out how exactly the whole driverod fits in the bottom z-mount. I can’t see any pictures in the magazine, also can’t find instructions here. Maybe I’m just overlooking something obvious haha.
Regards
Eujean -
-
-
-
Definitely making progress..
Just curious, The pipes are “warping” around each other, but I can’t seem to get them to sit flush with the pipe supports, it feels solid though:
I checked the pipe lengths, and they seem fine, and I’m pretty sure the smooth rods are in all the way into the z-mounts. Any thoughts?
-
It may be that the pipes are the class 9 pipes, and not class 16. That will give a larger inner diameter, and the inserts will sit loosely in stead if being a tight push fit. You can try using some tape around the inserts, but be sure to use non flexible tape – don’t use vinyl insulation tape for instance. Sellotape should do fine.
-
I think that might be the case as the pipes were never a tight push fit in any case.. Will try that.
Next question, in the instructions, different lengths are specified with different hotends. I initially didn’t see this as I started the assembly from the reprap magazine, and they assume a standard J-Head is to be used. If I were to say use an E3D-v6, which according to them is 12 mm longer than the J-Head, can I just use the standard lengths used in the assembly instructions on this page? That is the 650 mm for threaded rod, 440 mm for 15mm copper pipe and 460 mm for 22m copper pipe?
Does this just mean that the z-build volume decreases by approximately 12 mm? -
-
Again slight progress has been made, and all is coming together nicely. Quick question on the arms. Is there a specific way which works best with regards to which arm is on which side? For example in the reprap magazine, the theta arm is to the left if you are facing it directly, while the post with “Morgan in tails” swaps the arms around? And if I remember correctly, the newer machines have the theta arm to the left as well?
Next question, as the frame approaches completeness, I was wondering about the electronics. Should I go for the slightly cheaper, less-effort ramps setup, or should I invest time and effort into a much “better performing” arm-based system?
Regards
Eujean -
Reprap mag is right… The machine in the blog post was experimentally swapped, but that creates all kinds of problems with the firmware.
My recommendation on the electronics would be to go for Smoothieware compatible hardware. True, it is more expensive, but the advantages in quality and speed are impressive.
-
I installed the first motor today, and tested it with a spare arduino uno and a4998. I’m pretty sure things weren’t set up perfectly as the driver got very hot in a few seconds, and about only 1.2A was drawn from old pc power supply. But nevertheless it moved, albeit with only one stepper, it’s something :P. Next I was wondering where I could actually get the famous smoothieware compatible hardware? And what it would cost more or less.
I also noticed that as it turned, the belt tension was not consistent as it was turned, is this something to be concerned about? It seems the belt-clips hold the belt firmly.
Last question, in the assembly guide on this page, I see you say not to use PLA for the toolhead? Will it make a huge difference?
Regards
Eujean -
The Pololu drivers do get very hot… hence my move to smoothieboard.
I am working on a way to get Smoothieboards into the hands of people in South Africa. Currently the only boards available are at Robobeast, and they are holding on to the boards for dear life…
Regarding the belt tension, make sure the wheels are mounted in a way that does not introduce wobble. Also check that your drive wheels are actually round.
Toolheads on the latest machines are printed as part of the arm, out of PLA. It seems not to make a difference at all.
Q
-
A bit of an unrelated question, which will eventually relate back to the morgan. What is the units of openscad. A quick google said something about it being unitless? What does that mean when printing on the morgan for example? If I say cube([10,10,10]) do I get a 1x1x1 cm cube when printed? I have now designed my own feet/legs or whatever you might call it, but I’m a bit unsure about the scale or how it will come out?
-
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
