Full CAD model??

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    • #1913
      Jesse_G
      Participant

      I’m very interested in building my own RepRap Morgan, but I want to run it through my engineering filters once and redesign things to my ‘aesthetics’. I’ve downloaded the Inventor files from BUT it doesn’t come with many necessary parts. Namely nuts, bolts, and washers, etc. I imagine these were in some other directory in the creators computer… My question here is: Does someone have these files? Better yet, does someone have a COMPLETE CAD assembly of the RepRap Morgan? This would really save me some guesswork as to how the infamous Quinton built this little bugger.

    • #1914
      Quentin Harley
      Keymaster

      Hi, Quentin the infamous here…

      There are a couple of full cad models around. I think they do not add the “normal” stuff, since most engineers should have things like nut and bolts in their toolkits already. That said, I designed Morgan in OpenSCAD, and therefore there does not yet exist a full cad model from the source, as it were.

      I am working with someone to create the definitive assembly guide and the deadline for that is end of Jan. You will also be pleased to hear that it is a real dealine, not one of of the loose deadlines one sets for yourself when you are busy building a hoby machine. If he agrees, there will be a full CAD model sprouting from that project.

      Cheers,
      Quentin
      (Cue evil laugh)

    • #1915
      Jesse_G
      Participant

      Thanks for the prompt reply.

      My link didn’t come through before…
      http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Morgan_extended_BOM
      is this who you’re working with?

    • #1916
      Quentin Harley
      Keymaster

      Yes, and no. Robert has done some stellar work in the visualisation of the machine, and I use his exploded views to assemble my own machines now…

      I am working with somebody else right now, and it will be a surprise…

    • #1936
      Jesse_G
      Participant

      Awesome. I’m looking forward to that. 🙂

      In the mean time I’ve been plugging along and having at my idea. See pictures:

    • #1937
      Jesse_G
      Participant

      Basically my idea is to create x-y DoF arms that are a cross between I beams and square tube. Both of which are more structurally stiff. I add the taper because the internal bending moment of the cantilevered beam decreases as you get closer to the tip, thus the required stiffness is less so one could save some weight. Lower inertia (mass) means the motors can have better control authority, or operate at faster speeds.

      See the top two diagrams here as a reference.

    • #1938
      Jesse_G
      Participant

      Still some work to be had to crank out this idea. I see one issue right off the bat that I didn’t catch earlier. (I put an internal radius in the tube on the wrong side. Should be on the sloped side. This facilitates closing in the square cross section for the printer as the layers build up. My plan here is to print with the flat side down and the tapered side up)

      The wall thickness and overall part heights are complete guesses right now. At some point I’ll prototype these…

      Future plans:
      * add wire routing holes/paths.
      * decide on an extruder or make it a separate part/adapter you bolt on to the arm structure depending on which extruder you want.
      * multiple extruders??? 😀
      * B3 Innovations Pico Extruder shown in image. I like it because it is light weight and well designed. Also, the mounting threads will be cool (not hot).
      * Continue design down to the motors. i.e. figure out what nuts and bolts are supposed to be there that didn’t come with the model I mention above. Figure out how said nuts and bolts make it work properly and copy/paste into my drawing or see what modification ideas I come up with.

    • #1941
      ZS6HDV
      Participant

      Are those profiles printable? Would the bridge and overhangs at the top of the arms not sag during manufacture due to being unsupported?

    • #1944
      Jesse_G
      Participant

      ZS6HDV — That is my concern as well. Please note that the one issue I saw when I posted the image with a section cut is that the internal fillet is on the wrong side. My thought is to put a radius (fillet) on inside to support the bridge in the layers leading up to the top most layers. The radius of this feature may need adjustment to work; larger radius = better support for bridging. As a fall back the external overhangs could be omitted, or also use a fillet/radius.

      At some point It would help to see this come out of a printer to see how the sagging looks.

      A note about the external flange: It could be used to attach or ‘clip’ things onto the arms. Say, a wire holder/router, light, fan, etc. I’m thinking of a gun rail mount system, for example. See this image:
      http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/glock_go_pro_small-tm-tfb.png

    • #1957
      Quentin Harley
      Keymaster

      Bridge printing has come a long way, and these profiles may well be printable.

      I used the teardrop shaped arms because it is definitively printable, without relying on bridges, and are incredibly stable, despite the strange shape.

      I like the way your arms present, even though it may be a bit over engineered. Rather over engineered than under, right?

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