- This topic has 24 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 5 months ago by
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Hi There Q
I have been building my Morgan on and off for 6 Months and finally came to a point where I can start calibrating. ..And this has been a hoot…… love my Morgan.
Just a Basic design questions :
1. Is the top platform suppose to be parallel to the
bottom one ? Mine is not ?2. The Z platform is way out in terms of level.
Could this be because of 1.3. There are some cool additions to the Morgan Pro.
Will this additions ( Build Platform, pipe holders
ect ) be available for the “normal scratch builds”Thanks
Jaco -
1. Yes, the platform is not quite level. As long as the bed is squared to the bearing rods, all is good.
2. It could be. If it does not reach, try adjusting the bed higher.
3. Since I am now building 3D printers full time, I have decided to do the same as Ultimaker, and do a delayed release on the new stuff. The free version will be just one version behind. That said, the Pro version is still being improved on cosmetically… Time for a new photo shoot.
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Apologies about the delay…
To attach the 4mm tube do the following:
1) Push a short piece of 4mm ID (6mm OD) tube over the 4mm teflon tube after the screw cap.2) sharpen the tip of the 4mm teflon tube in a pencil sharpener, and thread a M4 nut unto the tube, and keep going until the tube protrudes on the other side.
3) cut the sharpened tip off, and ream the inside with a 2mm drill bit to open it up – it would have compacted during threading.
4) Fit the tube and nut into the hole, and tighten. The 6mm tube should be short enough just to keep the nut down in the hole. Flare the outer tube a bit if it comes through the cap
5) Never force it… you only have to keep it in.
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Hi Jaco, Fixed the photos. You need to add the link to the photo itself (download link) not the link to the dropbox page…
Back to the question. Seems you have Oscillations in the Theta arm. This can be due to belt tension, or it could be that something is loose in the drive shaft mechanism.
At what speed did you print the calibration cross?
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Belts should be tight enough to prevent the arms wigling while the motors stand still. Not too tight (bending stuff is a good indication of that)
I used to put a lot of threadlock into the nuts on the drive shaft to prevent the rod tuning inside the inner pipe. That helped get rid of the ringing.
Recently I tried making the whole inner shaft out of solid metal on a lathe with good results. Not easy if you cannot lay your hands on a lathe, but a lot more reliable.
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Morning all.
Well I decided to take the whole drive system apart and to re-assemble it again.
I did find the inner rod to have a small problem. it looks like the nuts at the end started to wear out the copper pipe. If you wiggle the pipe a little bit, you can hear the the nuts are loose in the pipe ( ;-> )
I then started to thing about the solid shaft for the inner tube.
Should I have a solid pipe with the inside ends threaded to be M8, and only connect a small piece of threaded bolt to each end? Or should i thread the whole pipe (which would be nearly impossible ).
Hmm I think a picture whould discribe it better !!
Will come back to you !!!
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