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The pipe you can get there sounds like the right stuff. I built my first machine using pipe I salvaged from an old computer stand. Give it a shot and let me know.
PLA is surprisingly strong if you print it hot enough. Use 0.2mm layer hight, 210 degree with 3 perimeters and 25%infill
The pipes are supposed to be under stress in order to provide stability to the frame of the machine. If the top platform leans forward you can trim the long pipes a little to get it level, but it has to feel like a bit of a fight to get the last pipe in because of the tension. Even the Aluminium and stainless steel frame machines have this pre stress, and there the tension is a lot more.
Hope it helps.
1) Your diagram is correct. Zero at A and XY increasing into the build volume
2) Homing should move anticlockwise for correct motor orientation.
3)Steps per degree, increasing anticlockwise.
4)The system homes to max, which is why homing moves anticlockwise.
M360 should home the machine, and then move the arms over to the other side of the machine so that arm1 (Theta) is parallel with the top platform
M361 does the same, except that the arm ends up 90degrees to the top platform for the calculation of the steps.
Now some questions for you 😉
a) Where did you get the firmware.bin
b) Which version of Morgan do you have
c) Did you enter your initial steps/deg into the config?
Pressing emergency stop places the machine in a halt condition, and you need to reset both the software and the machine to come out of it. The easiest ways to stop a print in a hurry is to just press “Disconnect” and then pressing the red button on the side of the machine to reset it. Then when you reconnect, everything is fine.
If you have more time, Sending “M26 M104 S0 G28” will stop the print start cooling and home it.
I will add a stop SD print button to a S3D profile soon.
Connecting the endstops depend on the model of hall effect endstops you ordered.
A1101 (the one we use in the factory) is wired
1) VCC (5V)
2) GND (0V)
3) Vout (Signal)
If I could recommend an upgrade, look at getting a smoothieboard or clone that can run smoothieware.
The Morgan experience on Smoothieware is worth the extra expense. Every penny.
If you have configured Morgan correctly, with Marlin firmware the bed should make a small jump as it gets into the z compensation area. This is normal. If the compensation grid is incorrectly set you might get issues like you describe with the bed moving a lot when XY gets into the compensation area.
To clear the grid, run M370 and then M373 and M500
Now you can start fresh.
The extruder is based on the Reprap pro mini extruder
The instruction is HERE. Follow the instruction for the 22mm shaft motors.
Looks like I need to relook Marlin compatibility for Morgans.
Thanks for sharing. I prefer the new all metal hotends myself, and I love seeing people getting creative to solve their problems.
M360 is written as an easy way to get it into calbration position. You could home, and manually jog it into position using the jog buttons in pronterface or whichever control software you prefer. Then run M360 P0
The same counts for all the other positions as well.
That said, it may be that your steps are mot configured properly, and the initial home position perhaps not set correctly.
Looks very nicely built. Let’s see…
First thing to check is that the microstepping flags are installed correctly. It needs to be all installed, for all the drivers. You can experimentally change the steps to 50 for faultfinding.
Regarding the end stops, test them using the M119 function. Move each of the end stop magnets into position independently, and run the command to see if it triggers. X is the top wheel, Y the bottom wheel, and Z is obvious.
You can use the same lead screw as used in the Morgan Pro. It is an Igus lead screw with 6.35 OD and 25.4mm lead, and 8 start design. You get the screw only, since the nuts are very expensive and not directly compatible, and just print the nut from the lilian repository
Remember that firmwares can be case sensitive, and that pronterface will only translate everything to uppercase if you do not mix cases.
Try M206 X-27.58
What firmware and electronics?