Reprap Morgan assembly instructions

There is an updated visual instruction coming to a RepRap Magazine near you soon…  Very nice work by Paulo.
Download it now, and Donate to the cause!

http://reprapmagazine.com/

Reprap Morgan BOM

 

RepRAP Morgan is designed to be very easy to construct. Building it resembles playing with beads and a string, and only the order of the beads make it work…

Printing Morgan

If you did not get a kit, print the Morgan parts out of the material of your choice. I recommend using PLA for everything but the tool-head because of the rigidity of the material, and also because ABS tend to warp woefully on the larger Morgan parts. That said, if you can print the arms out of ABS without warp, it may be convenient to print the tool-head and the arm Psi-A in one piece…

Sourcing Vitamins

Most of the components will be available at your local hardware store. If in South-Africa, check out my SA 3D suppliers list for the harder to get stuff, like the Teflon tubing etc.

If Budget is of no concern, most exotics can be sourced though a company like RS components, but beware that with ease comes high cost!

More info in the Bill of Materials.

Pipe Assembly

Components:

  • 2x PVC pipe 458.5mm long
  • 2x PVC pipe 32mm 451.5mm long
  • 4x Ported pipe adaptors
  • 4x Non ported pipe adaptors
  • 8x M4 nuts
  • 8x M4 mounting bolts, countersunk heads 40mm
  1. Insert the M4 nuts into the internal nut traps, and tighten / pull it in using the bolts. Do not remove the bolts at this time
  2. Mount the ported adaptors to the longer PVC pipes, using some PVC weld. Make absolutely sure that the ports face in oposite directions. The flat sides must be parallel.
  3. Mount the non-ported adaptors in the same way.

Platform plans
The plans for the platforms is a work in progress, but you can find it in the dxf folder of the git repository. I cut mine by hand, and a rotary tool, but it could be lasercut etc.

  1. Install the bottom Z-mount piece on the lower platform.
  2. Install the top Z-mount piece to the bottom of the upper platform

Drive Shaft Assembly

http://www.reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Morgan_extended_BOM

See this exploded diagram put together by angrychisel :  Drive shaft assembly  (Link fixed)

Components:

*Depending on your choice of Hot-end you might have to adjust some of these lengths: A Standard J-Head hot end is approximately 50mm long.  Add the difference in length of your chosen hot end to the indicated items.  as an example E3D is 70mm long – Add 20mm: 670mm, 460mm, 480mm.  It is possible to use these lenghts anyway, with longer stand-offs on the bed, but at the expense of potential instability of the bed.

  • 8mm Threaded rod – *650mm
  • 15mm OD copper plumbing pipe – *440mm
  • 22mm OD copper plumbing pipe – *460mm
  • M8 Nut x 12
  • M8 Bolt 40mm or similar (used as tool)
  • M8 Nylock nut x 3
  • M8 acorn nut (optional) x1
  • M8 washer x 4
  • M8 spring washer x 6
  • M8 washer 28mm OD x 3
  • 608Z bearing x 3 (of which 1 could be F608Z – recommended)
  • Drive wheel Rod-mount (3D printed)
  • Drive wheel Tube-mount (3D printed)

Take the 8mm threaded rod, and from one end, insert the following, rolling it towards the inside as you add the pieces:

  1. M8 spring washer
  2. M8 nut
  3. M8 Spring washer
  4. M8 washer
  5. 608zz bearing, optionally F608Z flanged bearing, with the flange to the outside – recommended.
  6. M8 washer
  7. M8 spring washer
  8. M8 nut
  9. M8 washer, 28mm
  10. Rod mounted Drive wheel, with two captive M8 nuts – one on each end.
  11. M8 washer, 28mm
  12. M8 spring washer
  13. M8 Nut
  14. M8 Nut
  15. M8 washer
  16. 608zz
  17. M8 washer
  18. M8 Nylock nut

Do not tighten anything yet, and let it sit loosely against each other on one end of the rod.

Prepare the 15mm copper pipe torsion support pipe:

  1. Take a M8 bolt, and turn a M8 nylock nut onto it so that the lock part sits flush on the tip of the nut
  2. Support the pipe on a block of soft wood, and using a small hammer, gently knock the nut into the pipe until it is 80% in.
  3. Carefully pull the bolt and nut out of the pipe, and repeat on the other side.
  4. Supporting the pipe of the wood again, knock a standard M8 nut into each end until flush. Tap the edges of the pipe gently with the hammer to ensure a good hold onto the nut.

Now from the other side of the threaded rod, turn the pipe with captive nuts onto the rod, and keep going until you almost reach the other components.

Insert the following after it:

  1. M8 spring washer
  2. M8 nut

With the bottom Nylock about 3 to 5mm from the end, tighten all the components against it, making sure to compress the spring washers until just flattened. Suspend the key components like the bearings and the nuts for the drive wheel nuts on PTFE plumbers tape, to ensure it gets fastened centred on the rod.

Push the 22mm pipe into the Tube-mount drive wheel, with the flat side of the wheel to the bottom. Ensure that there is just enough space at the bottom of the wheel for the 608 bearing. Install the wheel and pipe into the inner drive shaft by pushing it onto its 608 bearing.

Frame assembly

  1. Install the pipes by carefully removing the bolts, and mounting it with the non-ported pipes to the back, and the ported pipes to the front. To Do: Image.
  2. Insert the smooth rods into the Z-holder
  3. Insert the drive assembly into the Z-holder
  4. Push the 6805 bearing adaptor onto the 22mm pipe, just a bit lower than the tops of the pipe.
  5. Insert the LMxUU bearings on the smooth rods, with or without the bed arms
  6. install the motors into the motor holders, and install on the base plate, making sure it clears the drive wheels.
  7. Install the top platfom on the pipes (careful not to lose the captive nuts inside), making sure the smooth rods gets inserted properly in the top z-mount holders.
  8. Mark the position of the 6805 bearing relative to the 22mm pipe.
  9. Remove the top platform (Did I mention the captive nuts), and push the 6805 adaptor to the correct position and install the 6805 bearing on it. This should lock the adaptor onto the pipe.
  10. Reinstall the top platform (Again, the nuts) and check for smooth movement of the 22mm tube on the bearings.
  11. Install the Arms on the driveshaft. (see Arm assembly and installation)
  12. Install the Drive Belts on the motors. Use the hole opposite to the arm orientation for both wheels respectively.
  13. Install the extruder on its mounting spot, and insert the Bowden adaptors if applicable
  14. Install the Z-drive motor onto the top platform
  15. Cut the lead screw to size, approximately 330mm long. If using the SDS lead screw, cut the SDS adaptor off right at the neck, and cut the tip of at the required length.
  16. Install the Z lead screw motor coupler piece onto the lead screw, using two M3 bolts and nuts. Insert the M3 captive nuts into the coupler, and install the M3 grub screws.
  17. insert one lead screw nut, and the 8mm spring onto the lead screw and insert it into the Z-mount bracket, followed by the second lead screw nut. Compress the spring to lock the second lead screw nut onto the screw.
  18. Install the bed arms (if not done before) by sliding the linear bearings into it from top and bottom.
  19. Insert the lead screw and bracket, and slide the bracket onto the bead arms from the bottom. Attach to the motor shaft using the three grub screws in the motor coupler.

Arm assembly and installation

Prepare the arms:

  1. Drill out the bearing cavities and tube areas using a 22mm step drill or similar, to achieve a smooth ID of exactly 22mm.
  2. Press fit M8 nuts into both ends of the Hex shafts of the Psi A and Psi B arms, as well as one M8 nut in the hex connector of the Theta B arm
  3. Insert two 608 bearings on the the bearing shaft of the Psi A arm.
  4. Prepare the 100mm and 40mm M8 bolts by turning PTFE plumbing tape onto the areas that will touch the bearings, and the captive nuts – for centering

After the top platform is installed, fit the arm components onto the drive shaft in the following order:

  1. Theta arm-A, with shaft pointing down
  2. 608z or F608z (recommended)
  3. M8 nut – Tighten down until the bearing touch the 22mm Pipe
  4. M8 spring washer
  5. M8 washer, 28mm
  6. Arm Psi-A, with the captive M8 nuts in the ends
  7. M8 Nylock
  8. (optional) M8 Acorn nut

Again ensure that the components like the Arms and bearings sits on the rod, suspended on PTFE plumbing tape. This ensures that the components are completely centred on the rod, and will eliminate most of the potential shaft wobble.

When the final locknut has been tightened check for smooth movement of the two arms and the respective drive wheels.

Mark and cut the rod, leaving about 5mm from the nut, and install the acorn nut over it. Be sure to protect the machine from the metal filings by using some plastic bags or similar protection.

If the tool head is not integrated into the Psi-B arm, attach the tool-head to the arm Psi-B using two 2mm self-tapping coach screws, 40mm long. Attach Arm Psi-B to Psi A using the 100mm M8 bolt, pushed though the bearings in Psi A, followed by M8 nut, spring nut, and then the captive nuts of Psi-B. Secure with M8 washer 28mm, and M8 Nylock nut.

Insert the 6805 bearing into arm Theta B, and press fit over the Tool-head. If it does not have a tight fit, use PTFE tape on the toolhead to ensure a snug fit. Proceed to fit Theta B to Theta A using the 40mm M8 Bolt through the 608 bearing, followed by M8 spring washer, M8 washer, and the captive nut of Theta B. Secure with M8 washer 28mm and M8 Nylock nut.

 

 

82 thoughts on “Reprap Morgan assembly instructions”

  1. Hi Quentin,

    Looking over the instructions, would certainly be nice to have accompanying pictures.
    Getting my parts printed currently.

    Ported and non-ported pipe adapters – ???

    Currently reading and prepping for the drive shaft assembly.
    Since I am in the USA, I need to convert from metric to standard. Specifically can I substitute 3/4″ for 22mm and 1/2″ for 15mm? Not really finding the metric sizes here.

    Look forward to talking with you otherwise too.
    Steve

    1. Hi Steve,

      Those imperial pipes may work fine. Would you mind doing me a favour? Grab your calipers and go measure the OD of the pipes you have available, and report back. If needs be I could make a new set of wheels and Theta-A arm that will fit better.

    2. Did some looking around, and found this:
      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nominal_Pipe_Size

      The 1/2 NPS pipe should be a good substitute for the 22mm pipe (21.34mm), since you actually have to drill out the holes a bit to make it fit snugly – (the holes are a bit too small, on purpose)

      You need 3/8 NPS pipe for the 15mm, but here you will probably have to drill it out a bit to fit (pipe OD is 17.15mm it seems)

      I may be smoking my socks though… and your calliper help would still be appreciated!

    3. Svend Saustrup: @Steve: You write: “metric to standard”. Please remember that only a few countries in the world still use inches, feet and Fahrenheit deg.- the rest have adapted to metric and Celsius deg. But at least, in the US you drive in the right side of the road :-).

      One man’s standard is another man’s nightmare.

    1. Age old question.

      Age old answer? We are working on it!
      Being South African, there is no Kickstarter to get the ball rolling. We just have to roll it ourselves…

      Q

      1. Thanks for the age-old answer 🙂 You might consider an FAQs section so you don’t have to keep answering that one (or others).

      2. By the way, the language further up on this page (“If you did not get a kit…”) is what led me to believe there was a kit to be had.

        Also, on the SA 3D Suppliers list, it mentions the first supplier as being a partner for Morgan kit distribution, hence my confusion.

        You may also want to consider starting a waiting list to simply collect email addresses (sales leads) from people who are interested in buying the kits once they become available.

        Hope this helps.

      3. I know i’m a year late on this question but i havent seen anything yet about kits.

        are there anything in the pipeline?

  2. Excellent idea.
    Collect a list of interested parties, maybe a newsletter . . .
    May be some competition – what would you pay? 😉

  3. I would love to keep up to date on this project. One thing is why don’t you get a group going the the USA that might want to start a kickstarter and back it?

  4. Hello,
    IM new to this 3d printing stuff, my son who is 14 is so intrested in this technology and has been asking me to buy him a 3d printer. i saw this post and it looked like a good beginning for him. like i said i am new and really dont understand any of this so any information or help would be much appreciated.
    My son and i would like to build this kit or purchase it, so if you have any pointers please share.

  5. Hi Quentin,

    Lead screw topic – SOLVED !
    I did extensive research regarding your masonry bit. Reason: Alpen is not sold in the US – Mexico is closest. Research shows, in fact, you picked a “special” bit. Translation: No substitutes.
    The Alpen new F4, has a patented 4X stepped profile thread design. Supposedly different from other SDS+ bits.

    SO – Bottom Line, I ordered the Alpen 8mm x 450mm SDS-Plus Masonry drill bit today from a shop in Ashford, outside London. $15 British pounds, $22.60 USD shipped to USA. Looking forward to getting my plastic parts Saturday.
    How’s your Doc coming?

    1. Just to keep it here on the blog as well…

      You are welcome to use real lead screw. It may be a lot cheaper to get that in the states, and much more freely available.

      If you want to use a drill bit like I did, it might be a good idea to use a bit that is commonly available, and make a new nut for it.

      1. Hi Steve and Quentin,
        I’m also wondering what should I take for the leadscrew. I have my parts printed, and I would prefer not making a new nut, as I have not an easy-available printer to do some tests.

        Quentin, will a real lead screw fit the nut from the .stl file ? If yes, could you send a link of such a leadscrew, so that I try to find a similar in Europe ?

        Steve, is the Alpen you bought in London fitting with the nut ? I’ll be in London in one week so if it fits, I’ll be glad to buy one for me !

        Thanks for your answers !

        Florent

        1. Hi Florent,

          If you use proper lead screw, it is best to get the lead screw nut that comes with it. The printable nuts with Morgan was made for one specific type of drill bit.

    2. The 4x profile of the Alpen bit is just an internal spiral to help the removal of material when drilling masonry. Any 8mm 450/400 mm usable length SDS drill bit should serve the same purpose. The main profile of every bit I’ve seen is dual fluted which is all that you need to use the bit as a lead screw. I’d venture to guess you could even get away with a 5/16th inch SDS bit.

      5/16 = 0.3125″
      8mm = 0.315″

      For those in the states, Bosch and MANY other companies have a commonly named SDS Plus line of bits that do have the 4x profile. But I REALLY don’t think it really matters.

      This Bosch Model # HC2055 Bulldog SDS Plus 5/16 in. x 16 in. x 18 in. Masonry Bit would probably work great.

      450mm = 17.7165 inches
      400mm = 15.748 inches

      That bit is 18 x 16 inches and has the 4 X Profile.

      Cost is $10-15 US Dollars

      1. Sellers here in germany seem to have went crazy the last months. They call over 20 Euros for an Alpen SDS Plus F4 8 mmx400 mm (450 mm). One sells them for only 7.95 Euros, but wants 10 Euros for shipping.
        DIY markets don’t have this bit in their standard portfolio.

        In June I’ve ordered 4 bits at 8.21 Euros, paying app. 39 Euros with shipping. Today you just don’t find comparable offers anymore.

        I’m happy with my Alpen SDS Plus in my Morgan. It’s fast and accurate.

        You can (as Quentin mentioned somewhere already) make your own leadscrew nut for almost any similar drillbit. You can find 400mm-bits for under 5 Euros out there. As you don’t use them for drilling, they will work as good as the Alpen bits do.

  6. Yeah, well I wanted to take advantage of all your hard work, no virgin trails, you’ve been working what like 2+ years?
    How’s the assembly doc coming along?

  7. Hi Quentin,

    So, after 10 days, do you have the build finished at work?
    Really need improved doc for my WAITING build.
    Thanks

  8. Quentin, would you mind expanding on “Ported pipe adaptors” and “Non ported pipe adaptors”? I’m not exactly sure what I should be looking for. For the ported adapters, I assume it should ported from 32mm to some other size, and for the non-ported, I guess I’m not sure why you’d need an adapter if it’s not ported to another size.

    Maybe once the pictures are ready, things will become more clear though.

    At any rate, I hope all is well.

    Take care,
    Tim G.

    1. One type has a hole on the side, the other not. This is to help you hide the cables in the PVC pipes, and to help you easily differentiate between the two pipe fittings. They do have different angles, but the real differences are hard to spot, hence my decision to only add the holes to one set.

      There is an awesome LEGO style instruction on it’s way… Not long to wait now!

      1. Ah ok, thank you for the clarification. I had already decided to jump head first into building the project, and I’ve already begun sourcing parts, but it’s definitely nice to hear that LEGO-style instructions are on their way. That would be awesome!

        Rough estimates on parts, at least based on eBay prices put the cost somewhere around $430, I believe. Though I’ve heard it said that it’s a ‘sub-$400’ printer, and in fact, I was thinking it was closer to $300.

        Of course…the only printed parts I’ve been able to find so far were $102 for the set, with shipping, so that added a significant chunk. I can’t blame the guy for charging so much, being that he’s the only person on eBay selling them right now.

        I’m not sure what to expect from other 3rd party printing services, but I haven’t crossed that bridge yet. I figured I’d start ordering the parts that will take the longest to get here.

        Anyway, it’s great that most of this stuff can be acquired at my local hardware store, and I’m definitely chomping on the bit and ready to get started.

        Thanks a ton for putting all this together. Much appreciated.

        -Tim G.

  9. No complaints. You’ve done such fabulous work I just want everybody to build one or TWO. I know you’ve been working hard a long time – and it shows with your device.

    BTW, Congratulations on winning the Gada prize.
    Well deserved.
    I was emailing with Kartik. Do you have any plans for an entry for the 2015 Grand Prize? Will the Morgan be automatically entered?

  10. Congrats from Brazil for the nice work on your printer!

    Are there any instructions on assembly the eletronics, as in the endstops? And about the belts and pulleys?

        1. … Still waiting …

          It will come. We are starting a Morgan build tomorrow. I will take pictures as we go along, and post. Otherwise let me know where the confusion lies and we can chat about it.

    1. I got it from various sources, but your best bet would be to try Micro Robotics in Centurion, and OpenHardware.co.za (I assume you are South-African)

      1. Yeah I am in Centurion 🙂
        So would that be NEM17 or 23?
        Also do they specify the 200 or 400 revs?
        Cheers
        S

  11. Better question, can one use drv8825 instead of drv8834? or 4 drv8834 (or drv8825) instead of 2 a4988+2 dr8834? It can be cheaper buying 4 instead of 2 of each…

    And drv8825 newer — or older (with the hack you documented earlier) version?

  12. A4988 costs U$5, can I use all of them?

    About DRV8825 it is cheaper that DRV8834, thus the question if it can be used instead.

    1. I use DRV8825 – more than capable for driving the stepper motors on Morgan. Always use DRV8825 mod20b, as Steve pointed out. I modify mod20b even further in order to get smooth stepping, but mod20a will need an addiotional hack to just get it working…

  13. Hi
    Quentin can certainly correct me, but I think it’s best to use 2-A4988 and 2-DRV8825. 1/32 step for the arms, 1/16 other

  14. Btw, for the DRV8825, best to use model mod20b versus the earlier mod20a. Pololu distinguishes but others often don’t.
    Quentin describes a work-around for mod20a, somewhere.

  15. Found some motors on ww.hobbytronics.co.za ….. not to expensive.
    Anyone want to print some Morgan parts?? (Centurion)
    S

  16. Hi Florent,

    I got the Alpen bit because it’s the same as Quentin used. Get it – save the shipping.
    I’ll experiment with alternatives after the first is built.
    Steve

  17. Too much help likely required. Got stuck early in the drive shaft build area.
    Waiting (im) patiently for instructions.
    Certainly can’t sell any kits without build instructions.

  18. Hi

    Can anyone please help me? I have no idea where to find the printed part?
    Is there someone that I can buy them from?
    on openhardware.co.za you can only buy the complete printer.
    I want to buy, and build it piece by piece and don’t want to buy the whole thing at once. And will there be a youtube video of assembling the Morgan any time soon? It would certanly help alot or even just sketches or pics of assembling it would work??
    I’m based in South Africa
    Thank you for such an awesome design Harley

    1. Hi Louis,

      Where are you based in SA? If you can come to the Centurion h4h meet on Tuesdays we can chat about getting you a set of printed parts.

  19. Hi Harley

    I’m based in Vanderbijlpark (southern gauteng) Approx. 60min drive from Centurion.
    Were can I find more details on the h4h meet?
    I’ll be at work and I doubt if I would be able to make it.
    Is there any chance at all that I will be able to order the printed parts from you?

    1. I will be possible very soon. The design will have to change slightly to accommodate shipping of complete systems without the packaging costing more than the machine…

      But it will remain a Morgan.

      We have to start a small assembly line in order to get 3d printers into schools anyway.

      Projected launch date, September 2013.

  20. I am currently printing my set of parts. Can’t wait to start the build. I need to work out the imperial measurements for the copper and PVC pipe too.

      1. Is there a requirement for the thickness of the plywood? If it impacts the height of other parts I figure its better to use the same thickness as you did.

        thanks!

        1. Morgan is not sensitive to the plywood thickness, but I would not recommend using plywood much thicker than I did (13mm) except if you route a port for the Z-motor.

          The only measurement that is reasonably important is the distance between the platforms, and that is governed by the length of the PVC pipes. You get that close, and everything else just works.

  21. ” The semicircle out of the bottom becomes the top…”

    Brilliant! 🙂

    After reading all this… I have decided that I will build one. I do not have a 3D printer yet, which means that, I have to find substitutes for everything, but I will give it a try.

    1. It has improved. Look at the exploded diagrams provided by Robert, linked on the page. After this weekend Nicholas will also have a bit of time, so I am working on the scene by scene for his lego style Morgan assembly guide.

  22. Hi Quentin,

    did I mention that you may use my work, published in the Wiki here too? It’s for free and I made it to support your project, so feel free to use my work as required.

    I myself was very busy the last weeks and stuck a bit with building my morgan. But I’m optimistic to come back to my Morgan in a few days.

    About my Wiki-publications: I’ll change the platform plans a bit, in respect to your idea of the “twisted” PVC-pipes. But it will take a few days.

    1. Thanks Robert. I will definitely take you up on your offer. I am working on the definitive calibration guide at the moment, since quite a couple of builders are now at that stage.

      Just shout if there is any thing I can help you with.

  23. Hi Quentin…

    I managed to find the site looking up 3d printers and the diy route and i am amazed to find that SA has its own page in the 3d printing book! Congrats! I am very keen on looking into building the morgan and would like to know if it is possible to purchase the printed parts. I am in cape town and would like to know if it would be possible to ship to me?

    Your feedback would be greatly appreciated!

    Regards
    Megesh

  24. Greetings from the USA.
    For months I have had dreams of :d printing, and I really see the Morgan as the future of 3D printing. It seems a bit tedious but that a to be expected in such an environment.
    I can’t quite seem to find a definitive electronics diagram or bill of materials. Do they exist? Is there a wiring diagram available? I’ll be using my school’s 3d printer for my parts, but Quentin, if possible, I suggest making some of the printed parts avi able for purchase globally, even if the price shoots up. People will pay.

    1. Hi Jacob,

      In January I will finally set up a small factory, and if all goes well I could make the option available. Shipping will be the limiting factor, so I would not expect a lot of orders. It will be an option though.

  25. What we need is an informal network of collaborators, one in each geographical area, who would be prepared to print and ship parts for orders in their area.

    Orders for parts to be taken centrally, and printing/shipping farmed out to the local manufacturer. With PayPal the payment becomes easy.

    This prevents independent operators ripping off people who want to build Morgan, and achieves a global footprint.

    1. I fully agree. In actual fact, I alrealy have a couple of makers in the US and EU that will make you a Morgan, and I refer people close to them to them. I like the global order system…

      I take it you would like to participate

      Let’s see if I can whip up a online system to make this possible. Nice idea.

  26. Yes I’m in US and would welcome this as well. As I can’t get parts and am only allotted $30 – $45 per pay check from the wife. I’ve opted to try a Lego / K’nex build. Hoping this will keep me moving forward over next few weeks until I can eventually collect everything needed. Hopefully instructions are finished by then too. I’ll need help learning the electronic steps. Heading to the forums now. Thanks again for this! It’s really my only option and gives me a affordable project to do with my son.

  27. You are telling me! Here in south africa it is even worse because of import duty and transport. The only way to fix that problem is to start making the expensive stuff ourselves.

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